Lada Priora is a popular Russian car, which since the appearance began to actively popularize among the motorists of our country.

It is important that manufacturers carefully worked out all technical and functional qualities to gain reliability and durability of the machine.

But, as practice shows, even the highest quality cars in the application process may face technical breakdowns. If we consider the basic breakdowns of the Lada Priory, then it is worth noting the lack of ignition, which is why it is not possible to start the engine.

Many owners faced such breakdowns and malfunctions of their car, so a detailed consideration of the causes of the appearance and methods of their elimination are required.

The main causes and ways to solve them

Lada Priora 16 valves is a car created on the basis of innovative technologies borrowed from foreign concerns, so the technical side provides different functionality. It is also an important property that all parts are original, therefore, if necessary, the consumer can easily perform repairs.

The reasons for which the car does not start may differ among themselves depending on the external influence, namely, this is the lack of a starting point in the frost, due to technical problems and so on.

Starter breakdowns and their solution

If the starter does not twist and does not start the car engine, then the following breakdowns can be distinguished and solve them.

Estimated malfunction	Method of diagnosis	Development method
No battery charge	Rated voltage at the battery terminals without load should be at least 12V. If the engine does not start, then a characteristic click and crash is created.	Charging the battery or its complete replacement.
Oxidation of terminals or continuing them	When starting the engine, the rated voltage drops several times more than the output of the battery. When the system is running, a characteristic crackle is created.	You can clean the contacts and process them with special means to restore the accuracy of the connection.
Wedge Engine	Check the level of rotation of the crankshaft and pulley of the generator system.	Restore engine work, pump or generator system.
Starter malfunction	Conduct a technical inspection of the starter.	Repair it or replace it with a new one.
Faulty starter inclusion circuit	When turning the starting key to position "II" does not work the traction starter relay. The voltage supply level is checked.	To replace the starter relay, wires, or ignition key depending on the location location location.
	When starting from the key to the "II" position, the relay does not work, but the desired voltage is fed. Relay is removed and inspected for damage.	A traction relay is replaced, since in most cases they cannot be repaired.
Oxidation of contacts or incorrect work "Mass"	When starting the starter, a characteristic click is created, and the anchor of the starter does not rotate, which leads to the encoding of the entire system. The contacts leading to the starter and mass terminals are checked.	All terminals need to raise, clean the contacts from oxidation and replace the damaged segment of the wiring if necessary.
System breaking in a trailer relay	During the start of the engine, a characteristic crack is created, and the voltage from the battery is provided at a normal level.	Replacing the traction relay.
Towing clutch under idling	When starting the starter, the anchor rotates, and the flywheel remains fixed.	Coupling is carried out or a completely whole starter when it is impossible to repair.

As a rule, with a detailed consideration of the starter system and associated designs, it is possible to determine the problem and eliminate it efficiently. Sometimes the fault is a combination of several breakdowns, for example, the battery was discharged and the terminals moved away. Therefore, it is important to carefully treat all the details.

Starter works, and the engine does not start

If the starter twists for a long time, and the engine is not activated or the car is badly started without gas, then in this case you can talk about the presence of malfunctions from the motor side or in the chain leading to the starter. And sometimes the reasons are more primitive: the lack of fuel, the discharge of the battery, disruption of the connections or their separation from the installed places. Attentive consideration of the causes of such a malfunction, diagnosing and elimination methods make it possible to achieve the task in terms of restoring functionality.

Estimated malfunction	Method of diagnosis	Development method
Lack of fuel in the tank	On the instrument panel, the fuel sensor shows zero marks.	Follow the benzobak.
	The lack of rated voltage without the load of the AKB, which is why a characteristic crack is created.	You just need to charge the battery or in the case of its complete malfunction to replace the new one.
Oxidation of terminals or fragile fastening	The lack of due tension and the appearance of a foreign cod when trying to start the engine.	Cleaned terminals and wires, and are also processed by technical lubricants to avoid closure.
Violation of the phase of the gas distribution element	You need to carefully check the labels on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.	Shafts are installed in the correct position.
Breakdown in the ignition system	The system is checked for the presence of a spark from which the engine starts.	Chains and ignition systems are checked, and the necessary elements in the system are completely replaced.
The fuse overheats and the main relay in the system is faulty	Checked for damage to the relay and fuse.	The cause of the fuse brave is eliminated. And if necessary, replaced relay or fuse itself.
	The pressure in the fuel system is checked for deviation from the norm and the state of the fuel system.	The filter is cleaned, the fuel pressure is adjusted and the fuel pump is replaced.
Faulty nozzles and chains	one). It happens that the fuel pump turns the fuel, and the car does not start. With the help of an ometer, the quality of the nozzles winding is checked. And also diagnosed chains for a break.	one). Fully replaced the nozzles or parts of the chain.
	2). Does not shake fuel pumps.	2). The fuel pump is checked for damage and performance.

As a rule, the owners of the car Lada Priora and on the cold, and on a hot most often face a break or damage to the system leading from the starter to the engine, so the engine does not grab and does not start. This will eliminate the problems without its distribution in the form of a breakdown of additional elements.

Causes of launch and subsequent motor self-off

It happens often and so that the engine starts and then stalls after a few seconds, so it is important to allocate the main reasons for such a fault:

1. The connections of electrical coils are weakened or damaged, which are responsible for the quick engine start.
2. There is no proper pressure in the fuel system.
3. Exactly connections in the highway are also the cause of engine performance.

Automobile experts recommend regularly carrying out a car maintenance to avoid breakdowns. But if you failed to prevent faults, then it is recommended to contact highly qualified specialists to a service station that can restore the performance of the car.

Held a car?

Car owners complain that their car is bad for hot. If in the morning the vehicle can be good, then after a minor ride and plugs to start the engine, you will need to turn the starter by pressing the gas. At the same time, it starts smelling with gasoline and a few seconds of Troit.

• fuel and air filters,
• installation of thick gasket from the textolite under the fuel pump,
• nozzles,
• water temperature sensor.

If the machine is badly started on the cold, then the problem may be associated with the use of poor-quality gasoline. In this case, it is necessary to refuel only at the verified gas stations. Another reason for which the prior is worse in cold weather is worse, is the loss of the battery part of its container. Starter twists heavier. Oil loses its viscosity, becoming thick. At low temperatures, it is recommended to pour the synthetics.

As a rule, it is necessary to start the car, 1-2 rotations of the starter shaft shaft. A vehicle in good condition will not be bad for hot or cold. For this, auto mechanics advise the owners of Lada Priors to adhere to the following recommendations:

Council	Clarification
Pour a lot of gasoline into the tank.	Otherwise condensate is formed. Water will not be able to fall into fuel.
Before you start the car in the frost, you need to turn on the long-range seconds for a couple of seconds.	This step will allow in cold weather to restore part of the tank of the machine due to the processes occurring in the vehicle.
If there is an injector, then I will need to turn on the ignition and wait. The carburetor needs to pump gasoline manually.	During this time, the normal pressure in the fuel system will be created. In any case, it is not necessary to overdo it, since the spark plugs will sing.
You can add a little gasoline to the oil before leaving home.	The car will cool, and the oil does not lose its viscosity. When the car starts, gasoline evaporates. The main thing is not to fill fuel.

Check all ignition system nodes

Work in winter - solving problems

Auto mechanics recommend the owners of priors to properly start the car in the cold season. At the car, the car should not turn the starter for more than 20 seconds. Otherwise, the battery will quickly sit down, but Lada does not start. To warm up the car, you need to include 1-2 minutes of the Middle Light.

The presence of an injection motor does not provide for a gas pedal pressing at startup. For a manual transmission, you will need to squeeze before starting the clutch pedal. It is impossible to start the Lada with a push, as it can harm her.

If the car does not start, then you need to open the hood and check the health of the spark plugs, and also to see if the wires are attached to the battery. The extreme engine start-up is the use of the ethereal. It must be injected into the intake manifold. You can purchase this tool in a specialized automotive.

Main reasons

To start checking the service of the battery

"I'll buy a prior, and the starter does not twist." How to solve this problem, not all car owners know. There are several reasons for this state. Initially, you need to check the battery. If it is defective or not charged, respectively, the starter does not twist. Contacts must be well tightened and oxidized. If clicking when the ignition is turned on, then the wires are normal and power supply. The battery will be necessary to charge. If when the ignition is turned on, the light bulbs do, then you need to charge the old power supply or install a new one.

The starter does not twist and no click - the main reasons for checking the battery performance on another machine. In the case of a rapid plant, the car will need to check the posting on the first transport. Often the power supply is working, but the starter does not twist. In such a situation, the pyataks are checked in the retractor relay, as well as the generator brushes. If smoke goes from the starter, then it will be necessary to replace it.

Due to the cliff of the wires, connecting the body with a power unit, the car does not start. This is due to the heating of the brake cable, clutch or gas. It happens in the case when after repair it is not put in place. If the starter twists, but the engine is not scrolled, then the ring in the gearbox of the first unit burst and needs to be replaced.

Work on hot

Problems with the engine arise not only in frost, but also in just working the Lada. Many car owners face a situation where the hot motor will not start after stopping. Some drivers begin to twist starter, discharge battery.

Smoke - alarming sign

The main problem is that when the engine is running through the carburetor there is a large amount of air, due to which the motor is cooled. Similarly occurs with gasoline. With the engine running, the carburetor temperature is below the motor temperature. This difference is saved only at the workflow. Once the motor stops, the carburetor begins to heat up intensively from the hot engine housing.

Since the air flow is missing, so it is heated to the temperature of the motor in a couple of minutes. The gasoline remaining in the float chamber, begins to evaporate intensively due to the high temperature, filling, so emptiness, including intake manifold, carburetor and air filter. Gradually fuel evaporates, and nothing remains in the float chamber.

The duration of such a process depends on the time of downtime after a long trip, including ambient temperatures. If the motor will be launched for 5-30 minutes, then a mixture is switched to the combustion chamber that is transferred to fuel pairs. As a result, the spark plugs will fall, and the car does not start.

Solution of the main problems

To make the engine well on the hot, you must act according to a specific instruction. The main task is to combine the mixture to start the engine. During the launch of a hot motor, you need to squeeze the gas pedal half. With frequent pressure pressed, the situation may become more complicated.

In some cases, Priora stalls during her movement. Typically, such a phenomenon is characteristic of summer weather when the ambient temperature exceeds +25 degrees. The main reason are gas jams in the fuel pump. They do not give normally in the end, nothing remains in the float chamber, since it does not receive fuel.

It is possible to solve this problem by cooling the fuel pump. To do this, you will need to take a wet rag and wrap it with a fuel pump. This method is relevant for priors with a fully metallic fuel pump. Models in which glass is used, this method is ineffective, since the glass drops are burst. If prolonged cooling has not contributed to the launch of a hot engine, then the problem is in the fuel pump.

Engine launch problems

Many car owners are facing the situation when the starter turns, but the car does not start. Before finding out the causes of the breakdown of this transport, it is recommended to find out the principle of starter operation. This device is represented as an electric motor with a gear that comes into engagement with the engine flywheel and rotates it when starting. The enclosure is a retractor relay, which is intended to control the course of gear and automatic running of the electric motor.

When turning the ignition key to the start position, the power is supplied to the relay and at the expense of the electromagnet is drawn, moving gear and simultaneously closer contacts. Thus, the electric motor is launched. When the ignition key is absorbed, the power stops to enter the magnet relay. The last element works in the opposite direction, blur contacts. As a result, the operation of the electric starter stops.

If the starter twists, the battery is in good condition, but the machine does not start, then it is recommended:

• touch the wires that go from the power supply. In the case of their heating, contact is checked in connecting them to the battery,
• install terminals in place
• check the connection of the mass terminal with the body,
• rotate the ignition key to the "Start" position and measure the voltage on the connector with the tester,
• check if the power supply is passed from the ignition lock by disconnecting for this connector from the retractor relay.

Candles can be faulty

Otherwise, you will need to remove the starter. For this, the terminals from the battery are disconnected and the air filter is unscrewed. After dismantling it turns away and removed the plus wire from the starter terminal. After disconnecting the connector from the relay, the nuts fastening the last unit are turned away.

An important point in this issue is to verify the work of the relay. Using emergency wires for the "cigarette", the minus wire from the battery with the housing of the electric starter is connected. Plus - closes the relay connector. In this case, the last element must work, throwing a gear forward. Otherwise, the relay will need to be replaced.

Your technical equipment should be impeccable - after all, the time you have, there are the same money that, we hope you also have. Do not lose any other. If there is a disappearance of a tie or a library, a trouser who has lost the iron can cause a breakdown of a business meeting, then talking about a car that does not want to start an hour before the appointed negotiations.

Early in the morning, the freshly brightened and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - in a hairdresser, and he himself - to joke a labor penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and ... what a damn ... still time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is spoiled from the very beginning. Plans and mood - a cat under the tail.

Calm down. It is not necessary to rush under the English costume under the hood and, sinking the tie oil mud, try to diagnose. In 5 minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a friend to the evening. And better instruct his doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have a dear car, and you are not special. So it will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well acquainted and you consider yourself a healer - Well, try yourself, if not too lazy to get dirty or another output.

To the formulation of the diagnosis we must start quietly

Examine mentally symptoms. First - does the starter twist? And if so, how much is cheerful? You already know the answer - recall what happened at the first attempts to start the car. If you do not remember - try again.

If the starter does not twist at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the council above: "Take another machine ..."), or trouble with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power supply chain can be protected by a fuse - the amper of the AMPE is 300 - it is easy to find it, especially if you know where it is located in advance. If the battery is to blame, then all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case - flew or contaminated one of the terminals, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fastenings of the terminals on it and at the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery completely sat down (they forgot to turn off the headlights on the night), you can still leave. But with an extreme help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start with a shock, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to bypass underwater stones: a car with an automatic box or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) with these ways it will not be possible to start. We'll have to bite the neighbor. True, some machines may damage the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is twist, but sluggish (it happens in summer, in winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be visible on the weak light of the headlight or a sick signal. In this case, the above assistance options come into effect.

If the starter turns cheerfully, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, boldly exclude from further reflections all connected with the battery. Patya on the ignition system or fuel supply, you will not be mistaken. When making a diagnosis and treatment of each of them, a systematic approach is required. Start better from ignition - there are more often malfunctions. Especially in crude weather.

From the spark will marry ...

So, you need to look for a spark. Your machine can be equipped with a classic (simplest) ignition contact system, a rather complicated electronic contactless or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part One is low-voltage (interrupter contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in the electronic, plus a box with an electronic stuffing forming a spark). Part Two is an increase in the transformer, referred to in the world of the ignition coil. Part Three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires, for which the high voltage current is summed up to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The check of all this farm must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage First. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the central wire - this is the one that connects the coil with the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cover, closer to any part that has a good contact with the mass of the car (it is painted or not, it does not matter), and the gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.

If the ignition of your machine is electronic, it is necessary to mount the wire especially reliably - if it falls on the ground, the electronics will instantly order for a long time. For the same reason, it is impossible to chirp the wire on the case. Do not advise him by hand either, not even with your own - it will hit the current.

Stage second. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what happens on the tip of the wire. Two options are possible. A more favorable is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by loud-clicking. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

First of all, you need to remove the distributor cover. Under it can be raw and dirty. According to such a "conductor," the spark is willingly slipping anywhere, but not there, where it is necessary. Wash out, clean and dry. At the same time, it is harmful to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, a shallow eye. Inspect the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trail of the electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to change.

The most respectful way to check the wires from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and clean. If with them, in your opinion, everything is in order, you can put the lid in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the fault was burned under the lid - the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn, clean and dry the candles - in trying to start the engine you poured them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles still have to turn, clean and check. Simply, if there is a spare kit.

If you have already reached the step of turning the candles, it is possible to be quite effective (and effectively) to check the entire ignition system as a whole. Connecting the high-voltage wires to the twin candles, collect candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap directly along their threaded part with a naked soft wire. Make sure the wire has contact with each candle, but does not concern the central electrodes. Fluent wire end connect with mass. By placing a beam of candles in a convenient place to observe the location, screw the engine starter. At the same time, there should be funny sparks between the electrodes of candles in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinders). If so, then the whole ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be scared, because it spins with twisted candles. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of checking there is another option: the sparks between the central wire and the "case" is not. So it's not in high-voltage chains. Further search will be more complicated, appreciate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if the voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. It is easy to make a tester, and if it is not, you can use a rotor light bulb. True, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. In the classic ignition system, connect the light bulb between the mass and the input of the primary winding.

In the third stage, As usual, two options are also possible: the voltage to the coil is either served or not. If it is served, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, it happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to change. It is more likely to be bad contact in the mounting of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, according to which the spark bucks not known where. Sometimes the coil is cleaned to the brilliance, but under it the invisible very narrow strip of dirt is preserved - a good conductor.

If, at the third stage, you were convinced that the coil voltage is not served - the electronics or contacts and contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. With electronics (switch and, less often, sensor in the distributor housing) you can not cope - for their diagnostics you need special equipment. It is possible for you to pull the sensor connector on the dispenser housing - suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic ignition contact system, you can find further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the interrupter - they can oxidize, especially if the car stood for some time without movement. Contacts need to be carefully cleaned with a thin eyelet or special nadfyl.

Hold the cleaned contacts so that they are closed, they swallowed. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so it is possible to pull without knowlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the coil voltage is still not fed, we once again advise you to finish the attempts to resuscitate the car, since the difficulty will begin.

If the voltage appeared (when moving the contacts, the lamp flashes), restore all the developed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe still will have time to do. If it does not start, but at least sneezes - turn out the candles and ... (see).

Do not press the floor - it will not help

It may turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order, and the engine, even though you are crazy, does not start. So, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, t. e. Fuel supply to the engine.

If you have a car with an injection (injector feeding system) of fuel - do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was broken by it: there is a spark that fuel is suitable - it means she is rim. Treatment only in the hospital. At home and kustareys, it is useless to repair it and even harmful.

In the usual carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - tank, fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can smooth yourself. First of all, you need to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and click on the manual fuel swap lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline scored - everything is fine, it's time to go to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is applied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not come. If there is time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to sharply click on the accelerator pedal. Or you can dramatically pull the throttle drive cable. At the same time, look at the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): If the gasoline strika does not appear in the first diffuser - it means that there is no it in the float chamber. There is no it there because the needle of the valve (it happens very often) is completely clogged with a fuel filter in the carburetor - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or zepers clouded. The filter is purified by purging, however, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better not to bind to the carburetious insides at all, to deal with the healing of the needle valve, clogging of loopholes and other subtleties - let it make specialists.

If the trickle is in the diffuser, pay attention to the launching device of the carburetor - it is quite often fail. On foreign cars starting about the 70s, automatic air damper control is applied. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the flap as far as it is necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine starts. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal councils. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. Air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to the place) .. if when checking the fuel supply by a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline from the hose does not go or the trickle is very fluid, the reason should be sought in the closed pipelines, the fuel filter or fuel filter The fuel tube itself - you can safely demonstrate your masterness, pumping the benzins of the tire pump in the direction, inverse the movement of gasoline, t. e. From the carburetor to Baku. In the tank should be heard the ardor, bullous sounds.

With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although almost all modern models, it is made in a transparent building, the degree of contamination is impossible to visually determine. The dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to go normally. If it is completely clogged - the engine does not start. The most efficient check: Remove the filter and, if there is no new, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the ballpoint housings are better transparent - it can be seen how gasoline flows. Do not attempt to clean the filter - a walled (or missed) case does not understand.

If you came to the conclusion that your car does not work the fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".

Rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we left at last. If the starter works fine, you have already spent a bunch of time and made sure that ignition and food are in perfect order, and the car, however, does not start - it is worth considering the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The complexity is that we will have to remove or at least partially bend the top of the closing belt of plastic casing. It is possible that the belt was cut off the teeth - in the belts, like people, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain drive camshaft, this trouble is not threatened). The belt replacement procedure is not complicated, but troublesome. Carried out in the hospital. Well, if everything limits the replacement of only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block of the block - it also happens.

Smaller fucking

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since on most modern cars, it is maintenance free, it makes no sense to give here instructions for use. We will give only a few additional advice, how long to keep the battery viable. Do not get carried away with your machine with additional energy consumers. The fact that in the energy balance of the machine is provided for a defined stock that allows you to connect to two-three "thugs", does not mean that you can hang six clicksons for the car and ten foglights - have a sense of measure. In addition, if you connect the unforeseen Tsatski yourself, the likelihood of insulation damage is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified operational intervention in the wiring of the car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.

If your battery breathes to incense, try not to kick the engine during cutting stops in the city. Nothing raises the battery as a frequent use of the starter.

And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also the entire electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips should be dry and clean and well to lay down to "destinations". Dirty, grilled insulation sooner or later breaks through, and the burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of the ignition system failure. Or fire.

This can be stopped. The meticulous car enthusiasts undoubtedly noticed at some superficialness of our tips. We admit, we intentionally do not want to go deep into the debrist. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain at the bottom of the belly on the right does not mean that you yourself must delete your appendix. But you need to describe the doctor's doctor's symptoms for sure. Very helps treatment.

Problems with the launch of the engine of the car Lada Priora arise in the event of a malfunction of one or several elements of the machine ignition system. The reason for their appearance is a spark needed to ignite in the cylinders of the fuel-air mixture, does not occur. There are many reasons for such a malfunction, but all of them are divided into two large classes - the machine does not start with a correctly running starter, or problems are observed and with the starter.

1 Problems with the launch of the engine - the main causes of breakage

Lada Priora is a budget Russian car small class, the development of AvtoVAZ. The car was intended to replace the model of the LADA 110 family, and its variations were created on the basis of VAZ-2110 cars. In each modification of priors (and today there is a sedan, an elongated sedan, hatchback, a wagon, coupe) can be seen something from the models of VAZ 2109, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106 and others. It concerns this not only the appearance and structure of machines, but also problems with their operation.

The Lada Priora car often experiences problems with the start of the engine: an injector or carburetor works incorrectly, the starter turns poorly or worse - does not spin at all. The car, and it doesn't matter - it is already hot or cold, "creaks, clicks, makes a grind, it does not catch spark, it stalls all the operation of the ignition system. Especially important is in the frost.

There are plenty of reasons for this, but they all have a solution. Pre-diagnostics of the breakdown in most cases will be able to perform the car owner itself, but for some operations you will need certain tools and an electric tester.

If the starter turns, but the engine does not start, the reason for such a breakdown can be hidden in reducing the charge on the battery or its discharge to such values \u200b\u200bthat the power starter is still enough to work, but for a full-fledged engine start - no. Check it is quite simple: listen carefully to the sounds, disconnected from under the hood at the time of launching the power unit. If a slight crack occurs - this is evidence that the battery requires charging or at all replacement.

The second widespread cause of the engine of the engine with a spinning starter can be called corrosion resulting from falling under the hood of wet air or water and the damaged parts that participate in the operation. As a result, their contacts become weaker and the voltage to the desired components is not fed. To eliminate this reason, it is worth considering:

• starter;
• candles;
• rechargeable battery terminals;
• all connections in the chain.

Special attention should be paid The presence or absence of condensate under the hood.

When corrosion detected, it is necessary to replace or stripping the oxidized element, and if we are talking about the drive terminals, it will not be superfluous to overtake them with a technical vaseline.

2 Pay attention to the electrical wiring

Important position and connection of wires in the system are important. Often the wire "departs", which causes problems with ignition. It is simply correct: it is necessary to connect it back and generally check the correctness of all compounds and the correspondence of their electrical car circuit.

The ignition system itself is also undergoing, the entire or separate items, it must be performed using a tester. Another common cause of problems with the launch of the power unit is a disorder in supplying fuel, the culprits of which can be a relay and fuse of the fuel pump. This is diagnosed by the absence of sounds of the pump, and the correct solution will be replaced.

3 Check the work of other systems

If the initial check did not reveal faults, the battery has a sufficient charge, but Lada Priora still does not start with a spinning starter, go to check other control systems. In particular, the breakdown can cause a faulty ECU or sensors - coolant or crankshaft position. Such problems are corrected only in a hundred.

Among the main causes of ignition problems are the timing belt break. And a significant cut of his teeth can entail expensive repairs, because the replacement of this element needs to be carried out immediately after the malfunction is detected. The machine does not start and due to problems with crankshaft, separate parts of the cylindrophone group, the generator, the coolant pump.

And if such a situation arose in conditions of serious frosts, it is possible that the engine oil simply froze in the car. To continue operating the machine, a complete oil change on the recommended by the manufacturer is needed, which will definitely work in these climatic conditions.

Often, the problem is caused by the pollution of the fuel filter and damage to the fuel line. In this case, the filter should be carefully cleaned, and if this is not enough - to replace it or other elements of the node, which will come to the gasoline engine. The peripal fuse or the control system relay, the idle regulator can become the culprits. If you install a new fuse, it is usually not difficult for a car owner, then the sensors controlling idle moves, and other more complex components usually change the watches of the service station.

4 If the starter does not spin

This is a separate class breakdown, which may occur when:

• the complete absence of tension supplied to the starter is fully discharged battery or its terminals are seriously contaminated;
• wedge of the engine or attached aggregates;
• malfunctions of the starter itself (damaged gear of its drive or the teeth of the wint of the flywheel, takes place or closure in the winding of its anchor, breaking the traction relay).

Another reason is often the sinking of the sleeve clutch.

Moreover, it is necessary to refer to a hundred, if the independent check did not help reveal the root cause of the fault - in the auto repair shop, they will spend thorough and complete diagnostics of not only the ignition system, but also all other knots of the car.

Starter twists, but the prior does not start? Familiar problem? We know how to decide

Ladies and gentlemen, and you had such a problem, what? Many fans of the domestic automation faced with a similar phenomenon repeatedly. In particular, this can be said about the lucky owners of the Lada Priors.

Actually it a fairly common problem, you need to decide very quickly. If the first signs of malfunction appeared, it is not known how the car behaves at the next engine factory.

The starter turns, but the prior does not start - this is one of the most sore questions. A person can start a panic when there is such a trouble, but in fact should not be desirable. In some cases, the causes can be very insignificant. Knowing that it can lead to a similar problem, you can protect yourself from it or easily eliminate if it happened.

Main reasons

So, a person got into an unpleasant situation when the starter at his priory is spinning, but the motor does not start. There may be a whole bouquet reason. It is worth talking about them in more detail.

• • 1. The fuse burned down. In this case, it will be necessary to check its integrity. To do this, you can use a special indicator in the form of a screwdriver or the tester. If these tools are not at hand, you will have to wait for help from drivers passing by passing;

• • 2. Oxidized terminals On the battery or it is simply discharged. This seemingly a typical malfunction for a car can serve as another reason. , then he can turn the starter, but the charge is not enough for the engine. It is worth checking the device to exclude such an opportunity;

• • 3. Defect of the ignition switch;

• • 4. Corrosion. It may appear on any electrical detail of the priors. First of all, it is worth checking the starter itself, because it is always open to the flow of wet air, and this is the main cause of oxidation;

• • five. . This can also be checked through the transverse. For these purposes, the tester will need. In the event of a malfunction, this part must be replaced.

• • 6. Condensate accumulation under the hood of priors;

• • 7. Fuel supply problems. It is very often found with this kind of trouble. Here is a whole bunch of devices that are responsible for the uninterrupted operation of the system. Alone to eliminate the fault is not always possible, so it is better to turn to professionals;

• • eight. . And this problem may occur every car enthusiast. In this case, it is mandatory to use the reflux, and the subsequent test of their performance. Sometimes they just wipe them enough, but sometimes it may be replaced. It is better to carry them in the trunk for this case;

• 9. Engine overheating. This is another trouble that can lead to the fact that the work of the car will be suspended. There may be many reasons here. For example, may simply occur. There are many tubes from it, so each of them can be faulty. which is responsible for starting the engine, can also lead to the impossibility of running it.

  There is only one advice - Immediate replacement of the node. There is so-called inner overheating, which is much worse than external. If the second version necessarily reports all the sensors, then the second is practically indefinable. Need to immediately contact the service for help.