Daewoo Matiz counts women's car, and it is mainly purchased for trips around the city. It is profitable to buy a used Matiz when small budget, and a means of transportation is extremely necessary. The miniature, nimble car easily maneuvers in city traffic and easily parks on the side of the road.

The appearance of a Korean car is deceiving– despite the apparent compactness, the car interior is quite spacious. Car owners find many advantages in Matiz, and its important advantage is the reliability of the brand. Overall the car is not bad, but we should also mention its shortcomings.

History of the model

The first cars Daewoo brand Matiz appeared in 1998, the predecessor of the model is the Daewoo Tico, which was produced by a South Korean company from 1988 to 2004. Appearance And interior interior“Matiza” was developed by ItalDesign Giugiaro studio; since 2001, the hatchback began to be produced at the Uz-Daewoo plant.

The car was restyled in 2002, the changes affected:

Front optics;

Rear lights;

In 2003, it began to be installed on the car four cylinder engine volume 1 l and power 64 l. pp., an automatic transmission appeared, and for some countries, Matizs were also equipped with CVTs. In 2004 Daewoo company joined General Motors, and the car was also produced under the Chevrolet brand.

The Daewoo Matiz model had a twin brother at this time Chevrolet Spark, which had almost the same units and chassis, and only slightly differed in appearance from the Matiz. The car was practically considered a double, therefore it has the same disadvantages as the Matiz. In 2008 release compact hatchbacks With automatic transmission was discontinued.

Power plants and related problems

The main power unit installed on the Daewoo Matiz is a 0.8-liter, three-cylinder engine with a capacity of 51 or 52 hp. With. The motor operates with a characteristic chirping sound, but defect or “sore” this sound is not driving performance The car is not reflected at all.

It is recommended to change the timing belt on the engine after 50 thousand kilometers, but this regulation must be followed provided that the belt itself is original. Non-original parts of the gas distribution mechanism are not always of high quality, and this must be taken into account when repairing a car. Broken timing belt this cannot be allowed on the Matiz; in the event of such a breakdown, the valves bend when they hit the pistons, and it becomes expensive to repair the engine.

On average, a 0.8 liter engine has a good resource, and with normal use He can last 200-250 thousand km. To extend service life power unit it is important to change on time engine oil(every 10 thousand km), do not allow the internal combustion engine to overheat.

Weaknesses in electrical equipment

The weakest point in the Matiz electrics is a generator, his characteristic malfunction– breakdown diode bridge. But the advantage here is that the entire unit is inexpensive, and repairs do not hit the pocket hard.

Spark plugs and fuel injectorspoorly tolerated Russian gasoline , so Matiz should only be fueled quality fuel. The battery installed in the car is small; when starting the engine in cold weather, all consumers should be turned off so as not to drain the battery prematurely. The electrical wiring on the Matiz is not complicated, and problems with it rarely arise, most characteristic defect here is a blown fuse.

Gearbox and accessories

The main transmission installed on the first generation Daewoo Matiz is manual transmission gears, automatic transmission were only paired with a liter 4-cylinder engine. Special mechanical complaints Car owners don’t, except that the gears don’t always engage clearly.

The transmission oil should be changed approximately every 60 thousand kilometers; the same regulations should be followed for automatic transmission. Clutch disc and basket on Matiz miniature, however, with normal handling of the car, the clutch may require replacement no earlier than after 50-60 thousand km.

Interior, body and paintwork

There are plenty of crickets in the interior of the Daewoo Matiz, but you shouldn’t expect quality at the level of a Mercedes from a budget Korean car. The car body is susceptible to corrosion, Almost everything rusts body parts– wings, bottoms of doors, wheel arches, thresholds, bottom, hood. To prevent the Matiz from rusting so quickly, it is necessary to carry out anti-corrosion treatment immediately after purchasing the car.

Chassis and suspension

Front Matiz suspension– MacPherson type, on rear axle twisted beam installed. All chassis parts are as miniature as the car itself, so when driving on uneven roads levers bend, shock absorbers, struts and stabilizer bushings quickly fail. The undoubted advantage of the suspension is that its parts are very inexpensive, including original spare parts.

Elements exhaust system do not live on Matiz for long, the muffler and resonator quickly rust, and there is no point in welding the cans - the iron is weak and not of very high quality.

In general, the Daewoo Matiz car is quite reliable; unexpected breakdowns rarely happen to it. If the car is used carefully, it will last a long time, but car owners need to remember that the car begins to break down quickly. bad road, especially if you drive along it at a decent speed.

Car owners Daewoo Matiz the uneven operation of the engine set the teeth on edge. There is not only a decrease in power, but also a significant increase in fuel consumption, as well as uneven idling (triplication). How to get rid of this problem once and for all?

How is Daewoo Matiz diagnosed?

In order to understand what is really wrong with the Deo Matiz “engine”, you need to perform the following steps:

• Start the engine, get out of the car and listen for sounds from exhaust pipe. The sound of the engine should be smooth; if there are interruptions, at least one of the cylinders is not working correctly. Jumps at irregular intervals indicate severe wear of engine elements (plugs, injectors). If the intervals are equal, you need to open the hood and check the electrical wiring system. All wires must have intact insulation, and the tips must have no signs of oxidation.
• Remove the wire tips (holding the tip, not the wire, so that it does not break), unscrew the spark plugs and check their condition.

This is how it is possible to quickly detect a problem and quickly eliminate it if it is minor (for example, by replacing spark plugs or restoring the insulation of wires). However, if the breakdown is serious, do it yourself ICE is better don't climb.

The main reasons for uneven operation of the Matiz engine

Matiz owners often turn to car services with complaints about engine repair, What typical methods solutions to engine problems have been known for a long time.

Fault: too big gap between the spark plug electrodes.
Remedy: it is necessary to bend the electrodes with a special probe and replace the spark plugs.

Malfunction: when checking with an ohmmeter, a break in the winding of the coil block was detected.

Remedy: it is necessary to replace the unit and high-voltage wires.

Malfunction: marks on the camshaft pulleys and crankshaft do not coincide, which indicates a violation of gas distribution in the system.
Remedy: adjust the location of the shafts according to the marks.

Fault: regulator broken idle move(detected when a known working regulator is installed in the system and the engine is started).

Remedy: replace the regulator (sometimes replacing the throttle assembly is sufficient).

Fault: sticks throttle valve or its electric drive.
Remedy: it is necessary to adjust the cable tension or replace the entire assembly.

A car owner can be sure that the cause of uneven engine operation is determined correctly in a garage only if he has sufficient experience and necessary tools. If the driver is familiar with the structure of his car “to the extent”, it is certainly better for him to contact service center for qualified help.

Hello! My car Daewoo Matiz 0.8 2007 starts in the morning with half a turn. After the trip it also starts. After parking for 1-1.5 hours it will not start, there is no spark. With more long-term parking it starts again with half a turn. It seems that at a certain engine or interior temperature the spark disappears.

Hello. Our industry specialist has prepared an answer. We hope this helps you resolve the issue.

Daewoo Matiz

[Hide]

Why doesn't Matiz start when hot?

1. Many motorists with this problem look for a fault in the spark plugs. This is partly true, but if the car starts when cold (without problems), then the spark plugs are most likely in good condition. But think about it - even if when starting the engine in the morning you sometimes have problems starting, then pay attention to the spark plugs. They need to be dismantled and visually inspected; perhaps cleaning will help. Next, we will consider both the most common and less common causes of such a malfunction.
2. If at the same time high consumption gasoline, and the engine is running rough, then you should pay attention to its performance. We are talking about the wires that connect the spark plugs. IN in this case the engine can also trip. Please note that the problem can also occur on relatively new cars. In practice, we came across Matizs whose mileage was 50 thousand km, but these vehicles needed replacement of high-voltage wires.
3. Pay attention to the air filter. If this is the problem, then the engine cannot start. True, such a malfunction manifests itself equally on both hot and cold internal combustion engines.
4. The most common cause is a clogged injector. Often, Matiz owners cannot start the internal combustion engine due to a clogged injector; diagnostics and cleaning will completely solve this problem.
5. In addition, it will not be superfluous to clean the idle air regulator along with the throttle valve block.
6. If the pressure in the fuel line is not maintained at the proper level when the engine is turned off, then the malfunction may be due to a malfunction fuel valve or injectors. First, you should wash the injectors and evaluate the result.
7. It is quite possible that the cause of such a malfunction is the fuel pump or the distributor stylus. The fuel pump should be cleaned; if this element is unstable, the pump motor should be replaced. Also, malfunctions with the start can be a result of a non-working (or incorrectly functioning) distributor stylus.

Here is a list of the most common reasons associated with difficulties in starting the internal combustion engine. We hope our recommendations will help you solve this problem.

Video “Daewoo Matiz car diagnostic process”

How the diagnostic procedure is carried out vehicle Matiz, look at the video.

The sound of it working electric fuel pump installed inside fuel tank, driver passenger car Daewoo Matiz ( Daewoo Matiz), should be heard for a couple of seconds immediately after turning the ignition key to the “ignition on” position. If this sound is not heard, then the driver will have to start searching for the problem that has arisen, since the engine will not be able to start due to lack of pressure in the fuel rail.

In this situation, the driver needs to check the condition of two fuses Ef3 (10A) and Ef19 (15A), which are located in the mounting block under the hood of the car. If fuse Ef3 blows, the winding of the fuel pump relay will be de-energized, as a result of which the contacts of this relay will not be able to close and electric current will not flow to the terminals of the fuel pump. If fuse Ef19 blows, the electronic control unit (ECU) and the main relay winding, on which the supply command depends, will remain without power. electric current to the fuel pump terminals.

If both fuses are intact and have not blown, then for further troubleshooting It is necessary to check the functionality of the fuel pump relay, located in the same mounting block as the fuses you just checked. This can be done in two ways: purchase a new, exactly the same relay and install it, in place of the one that was previously installed, or instead of the fuel pump relay, place a jumper in the socket of the mounting block between terminals 87 and 30. If the fuel pump starts working, then we can assume that the fault is found.

And if, after your previous actions, the fuel pump still does not work, then it becomes necessary to check the condition of the electric motor of the fuel pump. Access to it can be found through the hatch located under the pillow rear seat. Disconnect the plug block and use two wires to supply voltage from the terminals battery to the fuel pump motor terminals. If the fuel pump starts working, you will have to ring the wires that supply power to the electric motor.

Daewoo Matiz- a mini-car that can be seen quite often on city roads. Unusual view, small size and low cost attract many novice drivers and women. The Uzbek assembly of these models is quite good, but Matiz still has weaknesses in some electrical areas.

If you are faced with a situation where some electrical appliance suddenly turns off or stops working in your car, do not panic, just remember the information from this article and check the Daewoo Matiz fuses and relays. She will tell you about all the fuses and relays installed in this car, and also teach you how to quickly find and fix electrical faults.

Please note - in case of electrical problems, dead battery, etc. do not try to start the Matiz from a pusher or in tow, especially in cold weather. Due to incorrect actions and some features, the timing belt may break off or jump off the gear teeth; in this case, the valves will most likely be bent and it will be necessary to expensive repairs(up to 50,000 rubles).

Therefore, in cold weather when the battery is dead, it is better to use “lighting” from another battery, or charging a dead one, or buying a new one, without resorting to towing and starting the engine at speed.

Cabin mounting block

Inside the Matiz mounting block located under the dashboard, on the left side (above the driver’s left knee). The most convenient way to operate it is to sit in the passenger seat, lie down on the driver’s seat and tilt your head back or sideways towards the pedals so that you are facing the mounting block, then the mounting block and the fuses in it will be visible.

Or you can open the driver's door, place something on the threshold, sit next to the car and look under the dashboard. It’s not very convenient, considering that the car is mainly for women, but what can you do, it’s what it is.

Interior fuses

F1 (10 A) - instrument panel, sensors and warning lamps, immobilizer, clock, alarm.
If your sensors no longer show dashboard and its backlight has disappeared, check the panel connector on the back side, it may have popped out or the contacts have oxidized. Also check the wires and connectors with reverse side mounting block at this fuse.

When you turn on the ignition, the immobilizer icon on the panel lights up - this means that it is looking for a chip key. If you successfully find the key, the lamp goes out and you can start the car. To add new key into the system, you need to flash/train the ECU to work with the new key. If you do not understand electrical equipment, it is better to contact a car service. If the car is not running, you can find and call a mobile electrician.

F2 (10 A) - airbag (if equipped).

F3 (25 A) - electric windows.
If the power window of one door stops working, check the integrity of the wires at the bend point when opening the door (between the body and the door), the control button and its contacts. It could also be a problem with the window lift mechanism. To get to it, remove the door trim. Check the serviceability of the motor by applying a voltage of 12 V to it, the absence of distortion of the glass in the guides, the integrity of the gear and cable (if the window lifter is a cable type).

F4 (10 A) - direction indicators, turn signal lamps on the dashboard.
If your turn signals stop working, check repeater relay B; it may click when you turn on the turns, but not work. Replace with a new relay, also check the contacts in the fuse sockets and its serviceability. The relay in some models may not be located in the mounting block, but under the dashboard on the driver's side. If the problem is not in the relay/fuse, then most likely in the steering column switch, check its contacts and wires.

F5 (15 A) - brake lights.

If one of the brake lights does not work, check its lamp, contacts in the connector and wiring. To replace the bulbs, you need to remove the headlight. To do this, unscrew the 2 headlight mounts with a screwdriver from the trunk side, opening the back door and the headlight will come out, opening access to the lamps. If both brake lights do not light, check the brake pedal switch, wiring, and bulbs. Cheap lamps can burn out often, replace them with more expensive ones.

When the contacts in the switch or wiring are shorted, the brake signal lamps may remain on continuously, without pressing the brake pedal. In this case, eliminate the short circuit.
There may also be a break or short circuit in the wiring running from the headlights to the trunk.

F6 (10 A) - radio.
Standard Clarion radio. Usually the radio turns on only when the key is turned to position 1 or 2 (2 - ignition). If your radio stops turning on when you turn on the ignition, check this fuse and the contacts in its socket. Measure the voltage in the radio connector by disconnecting it.

If the voltage of 12 V comes there and the connector contacts are working properly, most likely the problem is inside the radio itself - either its power switch has broken, or the contact inside on the board has disappeared, or one of its components has failed. If there is no voltage at the connector, check the wiring to the fuse, as well as the presence of voltage at it.

F7 (20 A) - cigarette lighter.

If the cigarette lighter stops working, first check the fuse. Due to the connection of different connectors of devices into the cigarette lighter at different angles, a short circuit of the contacts may occur in it, which is why the fuse blows. If you have an additional 12 V connector, connect your devices there. Also check the wiring from the cigarette lighter to the fuse.

F8 (15 A) - cleaner windshield .
If the wipers do not work in any position, check the fuse and contacts in its socket, relay A in the same mounting block, the steering column switch and its contacts. Apply 12V to the purifier motor and check if it works. If it fails, replace it with a new one. Inspect its brushes, clean them or replace them with new ones if contact is poor. Also check the wires from the engine to the steering column switch, from the relay to ground, from the fuse to the relay and from the fuse to the power source.

If the wipers do not work only intermittently, most likely the problem is in the relay, bad contact chassis ground or motor malfunction.
Also check the wiper mechanism, trapezoid and the tightness of the wiper mounting nuts.

F9 (15 A) - cleaner rear window, front and rear washers, lamp reverse .

If your windshield washer does not work rear windows, check the fluid level in the washer reservoir. Located at the bottom of the right headlight. To get to it, you will most likely need to remove the headlight. In order not to remove the headlight, you can try to crawl up from below with the wheels turned out and the right wheel liner removed. At the bottom of the tank there are 2 pumps - for the windshield and rear windows.

Apply 12 V voltage directly to one of the pumps, thereby checking its serviceability. Another way to check is to swap the terminals to the two pumps, because one of the pumps is most likely working. If you find a fault in the pump, replace it with a new one. If the washer stops working in winter, make sure it is filled antifreeze liquid, check the system channels for blockages and freezing of the liquid, also check the nozzles from which the liquid gets onto the glass.
Another problem may be in the steering column switch; check the contact in it that is responsible for the operation of the washers.

If the rear washer does not work, but the front one works and the pumps are working properly, most likely the problem is a break in the fluid supply tube to back door or its connections in the system. The rear washer pipe connections are located in front bumper, in the rear door corrugation and inside the rear door. If the tube breaks near the rear door, to replace it you need to remove the door trim and the rear part of the cabin. First, it is better to remove the corrugation between the door and the body and check the integrity of the tube in this place. A broken tube can either be repaired by cutting off the problem area and reconnected, or replaced with a new one.

If the reversing light does not work, check the lamp and the contacts in its connector. If the lamp is intact, most likely the problem is in the reverse switch, which is screwed into the gearbox. You can get there from under the hood by removing air filter. The reverse sensor is screwed into the gearbox from above. The sensor closes contacts when turned on reverse gear. If it fails, replace it with a new one.

F10 (10 A) - electric side mirrors.

F11 (10 A) - immobilizer, audio system, interior and trunk lights, lamp open doors on the dashboard.
For problems with the immobilizer, see F1.

If the interior light does not light, check this fuse, its contacts, as well as the lamp and its connector. To do this, disassemble the lampshade - remove the cover and unscrew the 2 screws. Check if voltage is supplied to the lamp. Also check the door limit switches and their wires.

F12 (15 A) — constant food alarms, clocks.

F13 (20 A) — central locking .
If other doors do not open when opening/closing the driver's door, the problem may be in the block central lock, which is located in driver's door. To get to it, you need to remove the trim. Check its connector, contacts and wiring. If you have problems closing/opening the driver's door, check the mechanism drive at the lock (with removed casing). It must move the lock rod and close/open contacts to control locks on other doors.

Central locking diagram

F14 (20 A) — traction relay starter.
If the engine does not start and the starter does not turn, the problem may be a dead battery; check its voltage. In this case, you can “light” from another battery, charge a dead one, or buy a new one. If the battery is charged, check that the starter itself is working properly. To do this, place the gearshift knob in the neutral position and close the contacts on the starter solenoid relay, for example, with a screwdriver. If it doesn’t turn, then most likely the problem is with the starter, its bendix or retractor.

If you have an automatic transmission, and when you turn the key the starter does not turn, try switching the lever to positions P and N, while trying to start it. In this case, the problem is most likely with the selector position sensor.
Also check the ignition switch, the contacts inside it and the wires contact group, perhaps due to poor contact when turning the key, the voltage does not reach the starter.

F15 - backup fuses.

Relay location in the cabin unit

A— front wiper .
See information about F8.

B - turn signals and alarm .
See information about F4.

C - rear fog light .
If the rear fog light does not work, check its lamp, contacts in the connector, wiring, switch on the panel and the reliability of the circuit grounding to the body.

Engine compartment mounting block

The engine compartment mounting block is located on the left side, near the battery.

Fuses under the hood

F1 (50 A) - ABS.

F2 (40 A) - constant power supply to devices when the ignition is turned off.

F3 (10 A) - fuel pump.
If the fuel pump does not work when you turn on the ignition (you cannot hear the sound of its operation), check relay E, this fuse and the voltage on it. If there is voltage at the fuse, get to the fuel pump and check if voltage is supplied to it when the ignition is turned on. If it does, it most likely needs to be changed. fuel pump on new. When installing a new one, also change the pump module filter. If there is no voltage to the pump, most likely the problem is in the wiring or the fuel pump circuit breaker (for example, in installed alarm system). The wires could be frayed under the seats, in the harnesses, or there might be poor contact at the joints/twists.

F4 (10 A) - power supply to the ECU, fuel pump relay winding, ABS unit, generator winding at start, terminal B from the ignition coils, speed sensor.

F5 (10 A) - reserve.

F6 (20 A) - stove fan.
If the stove stops working, check this fuse, its fan motor by applying 12 V voltage to it, as well as the handle and cable of its drive going to the heater tap. If the heater blows cold, this cable could fly off; it is located on the driver's side near the center console under the dashboard. If the heater speeds are not adjustable, also check relay C under the hood. It could also be an air lock.

To remove air from the system, drive the front up on the slide and open the cover expansion tank and blow the gas. On a hot engine, be careful when opening the reservoir cap. It could also be a problem with the heater core or clogged air intake pipes.

F7 (15 A) - heated rear window.

If the heating stops working, check the fuse and the contacts in its socket. If there is poor contact, you can bend the terminals.
In many models, due to the lack of a relay in the rear window heating circuit, the power button receives a large current load, so it often fails. Check its contacts and if it no longer locks in the pressed position, replace it with a new button. You can get to it by removing the dashboard trim or pulling out the radio. It is best to install a relay, thereby relieving the load on the button. In some models, a relay C under the hood is installed on this button, check it.

Also check the threads of the heating elements for breaks; broken threads can be sealed with a special glue containing metals. It could also be the terminals at the edges of the glass, a poor grounding connection, or the wiring from the rear window to the button.

F8 (10 A) - right headlight, high beam.
F9 (10 A) — left headlight, high beam.
If your high beams stop lighting when you turn on this mode, check these fuses, fuse F18, the contacts in their sockets, the lamps in the headlights themselves (one or two could have burned out at once), relay H in engine compartment and its contacts, the steering column switch and its contacts. Contact in the switch connector is often lost, disconnect it and check the condition of the contacts, clean and bend if necessary. Also check the wires coming from the headlights for breaks, short circuits and insulation damage. The minus at relay contact H may also disappear due to oxidation or burnout of the track in the mounting block.

To replace the lamp in the headlight, disconnect its connector with wires, remove rubber cover(boot) from the side engine compartment, squeeze the “antennae” of the lamp clamp and remove it. When installing new lamp Do not touch its glass part with your hands, because Hand marks will darken when turned on. The lamps in the headlights are double-filament, one lamp for the low beam and high beam, for dimensions, separate smaller lamps are installed in the headlights.

F10 (10 A) - right headlight, low beam.
F11 (10 A) - left headlight, low beam.
Same as high beam, except F18.

F12 (10 A) — Right side, size lamps.

F13 (10 A) - left side, clearance lamps, license plate lamps.
If you have lost side light, check these fuses and relays I and their contacts. Check the serviceability of the headlight lamps, connector contacts and wiring.

F14 (10 A) - air conditioning compressor clutch (if equipped).
If your air conditioner does not work and the clutch does not move when you turn it on, check this fuse and relay J, as well as the power button and its contacts, and wiring. The movement of the operating clutch should be audible through a characteristic sound when the air conditioner is turned on. If the clutch works and cold air does not work, most likely the system needs to be refilled with freon.

Do not forget that in winter it is necessary to periodically turn on the air conditioner warm place- a box or car wash, so that the seals are lubricated and remain in good condition after winter.

F15 (30 A) - electric radiator cooling fan.
If your radiator fan stops turning on, check relays A, B, G, this fuse and their contacts. The fan is connected through a thermal switch, which is installed on the radiator; 2 wires are connected to it. Take them out and short them together; when the ignition is on, the fan should start working. If it operates in this position, most likely the thermal switch is faulty; replace it.

If the fan doesn't work, it's either the wiring or the fan motor that's faulty. The motor can be checked by applying voltage from the battery directly to it. Also check the coolant level, temperature sensor and thermostat.

F16 (10 A) - reserve.

F17 (10 A) — sound signal .
If there is no sound when you press the signal button on the steering wheel, check this fuse and relay F and their contacts. The signal is located in the left fender, on the driver's side, to access it you need to remove the left fender liner, the signal is located behind the fog lamp. You may have to remove the left one for convenience. front wheel. Check the wires that go to it, if there is voltage on them, most likely the signal itself is faulty, disassemble or replace it. If there is no voltage, the problem is in the wiring, steering contacts or ignition switch.

F18 (20 A) - power supply for head light relay, high beam switch.
If you have problems with high beam see information about F8, F9.

F19 (15 A) - constant power supply to the ECU, air conditioning compressor clutch relay winding, main relay winding, two radiator fan relay windings, camshaft position and oxygen concentration sensors, exhaust gas recirculation and canister valves, injectors, fuel pump relay power supply.
If there are problems with the listed devices, also check the main relay B.

F20 (15 A) — fog lights .
If your fog lights stop working, check relay D under the hood, this fuse and their contacts, as well as the headlight lamps themselves, their connectors, wiring and the power button.

F21 (15 A) - reserve.

Daewoo Matiz fuses and relays in the engine compartment

A— high speed radiator cooling fan operation.
See F15.

B - main relay.
Responsible for the chains electronic unit control unit (ECU), air conditioner clutches, cooling system fan (radiator), camshaft position and oxygen concentration sensors, exhaust gas recirculation and adsorber valves, injectors.
If there are problems with the listed devices, also check fuse F19.

C - heater speed switch, rear window heating button.
If you have problems with the stove, see F6.
For heating problems, see F7.

D - fog lights.
See F20.

E - fuel pump.
See F3.

F - sound signal.
See F17.

G - low speed radiator cooling fan.
See F15.

H - head light.

I — side lamps, instrument panel lighting.

J - A/C compressor clutch (if equipped).
See F14.

I hope, thanks to this information, you will be able to quickly find the cause of the electrical breakdown and fix yours or someone else’s Matiz. If you have questions, stories or any information on the topic of the article, write them in the comments.