COMBINED IGNITION

Regulations castle ignition

1 — "LOCK"

2 - "ACC" (" Optional equipment»)

3 - "ON" ("On")

4 - "START" ("Starter")

WARNING: Not turn it offthose engine And Not take out keyfrom castle ignition in time movenia car. This will lead to blocking helmsman wheels, And automobile will become out of control.

"START" ("Starter") In this position, the starter operates. He will rotate crankshaft engine until you release the ignition key.

NOTE:

Not hold key ignition Vposition « START» ("Starter") bomore 15 seconds.

« ON» ("On") In this position, the engine is running and all electrical systems. Do not leave the ignition key in the "ON" position when the engine is not running. This will drain the battery and may damage the ignition system.

"ASS" ("Additional equipmentdovanie") When the ignition key is in this position, some electrical systems (radio, etc.) can be turned on.

"LOCK" The ignition key can only be inserted or removed in this position, in order to prevent theft when youtake the key out of the ignition, steering wheel will be blocked.

NOTE:

To unlock the steering wheel, insert the key into the ignition switch and while turning the steering wheel slightly, turn the ignition key at the same time.

To remove the key from the ignition

1. Turn the ignition key to the ACC (Optional Equipment) position.

2. Simultaneously press and turn the ignition key counterclockwise from the "ACC" (Optional) position to the "LOCK" position.

3. The ignition key can only be removed from the lock in the "LOCK" position.

BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE

Before starting the engine, do the following:

1. Inspect the vehicle for tire punctures, oil or water stains, and other visible signs of possible problems.

2. After getting into the car, make sure the parking brake.

3. Make sure all glass and headlights are clean.

4. Make sure all outside and inside rearview mirrors are clean and properly adjusted.

5. Check that the backrest and headrest of your seat are properly adjusted.

6. Lock all doors.

7. Fasten your seat belt and make sure all passengers have their belts fastened.

8. Turn off all lights and accessories that you are not using.

9. After turning the ignition key to the "ON" position, make sure that all the necessary indicator lamps are on and in fuel tank enough fuel.

10. Check that all control lamps after turning the ignition key to the "ON" position.

LAUNCH ENGINE

■If the car Hyundai Getz equipped mechanical box gear, move the shift lever to neutral and fully depress the clutch pedal.

■If your Hyundai Getz is equipped with automatic transmission gears, move the selector to position "P" ("Parking").

NOTE:

IN purposes security, enginecar impossible run, If selector automaticcoy boxes gear Not located Vposition "R" ("Parking") or « N» (« Neutral broadcast"). (OnlyFor cars With automatic box gear.)

To start the engine, insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it to the "START" position. Release the ignition key immediately after starting the engine. Do not hold the ignition key in the "START" position for more than 15 seconds.

MANUAL GEARBOX CONTROL

mechanical box Hyundai car GETZ has a standard shift pattern. The gearshift pattern is shown on the gear lever knob. All forward gears are synchronized and therefore easy to engage.

NOTE:

At inclusion transmission rearmove, after complete stops automobile, hold up lever arm switchcheniya gear How minimum on 3 sekunds V neutral position. After this move lever arm Vposition transmission rear move.

If automobile fully ostanovlen, A 1- I broadcast or pencountry house rear move « R» (Rear move) turn on With labor, translatelever arm switching speeds V Byposition « N» (Neutral) And vacationtite pedal clutch. Squeeze outpedal clutch again And translatethose lever arm switching speeds Vposition 1 or « R» (Rear move).

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

High performance automatic transmission Hyundai gear Getz has four forward gears and one reversing. Gear shifting is carried out automatically depending on the position of the selector. The selector lever has the usual switching algorithm shown in the figure.

ATTENTION:

While the vehicle is moving, the selector lever must not be moved to the “P” or “R” position.

tricks correct driving

"R"— Parking: use this position to hold the vehicle on
place while parking or starting the engine. When parking the vehicle, apply the parking brake and shift
selector to position T "(Parking).

ATTENTION:

Do not move the selector to the “P” (Park) position until the vehicle has come to a complete stop. Failure to follow this rule may result in damage to the automatic transmission.

"R"— Reverse: use this position to drive in reverse. Move the selector lever to the "R" position
(Reverse) only after the vehicle has come to a complete stop.

« N» — neutral position: in this selector position, the automatic transmission is disabled. The engine can be started in this position, but this is not recommended unless the engine has stalled while the vehicle is moving.

"D"— Movement: this mode is used for driving, one of the four gears.

Never switch the selector to the position"2" or "L" if the vehicle speed exceeds 96 km/h.

"2"— Second gear: use this mode when driving on slippery road, when driving uphill or for engine braking when going downhill.
When the selector lever is in position"2", the gearbox automatically shifts between first and second gears.

This means that there will be no shifting to third gear. However, third gear may be engaged when the vehicle exceeds a certain speed in order to avoid exceeding the maximum allowable engine speed. When returning to normal driving conditions, move the selector to position "D".

"L"— Low gear: this mode is used when climbing steep hills or when braking with the engine on steep descent. When shifting to "L", the transmission will hold the second gear for a while until the vehicle speed decreases enough to shift into the lower (first) gear. Do not exceed the speed limit of 50 km/h for low gear"L"

When the selector lever is in the "L" position, the transmission automatically shifts to first gear. However, it is possible to shift to second gear when the car exceeds a certain speed, if the speed continues to increase, then third gear will turn on to avoid exceeding maximum speed engine.

NOTE:

To ensure smooth and safe work, before moving the selector from the position "P" (Parking) or "N" (Neutral position) to the reverse gear position, fully depress the brake pedal.

To move a selector from position "P" ("Parking") to any other position, fully depress the brake pedal.

You can always move the selector from the positions “R” (“Reverse”), “N” (Neutral position), “D” (“Movement”), “2”, “L” to the position “P> (“Parking”) . In this case, the car must be completely stopped so as not to damage the gearbox.

ATTENTION:

While the vehicle is moving, do not move the selector lever to position "P" or "R".

Do not depress the accelerator pedal while the transmission is in reverse gear or one of the forward gears with the brake pedal depressed.

Always depress the brake pedal when moving the selector from positions "P" or "N" to positions "R", "D",
"2", or "L".

Do not use the P (Park) position in place of the parking brake. Even when leaving the vehicle for a short time, always apply the parking brake, move the selector to the "P" (Park) position and turn off the ignition. Never leave the vehicle unattended with the engine running.

Check the automatic transmission ATFe fluid level regularly and top up if necessary.

tricks correct driving

Do not move the selector from position "N" or "P" to any other position with the accelerator pedal depressed.

Before moving the selector to the "R" position, make sure that the car is completely stopped.

If your Hyundai Getz is equipped with an automatic transmission, do not allow the vehicle to move slowly forward. To do this, when the car is stopped, keep your foot on the brake pedal.

Do not hold the vehicle on a slope with the accelerator pedal. This may cause the transmission to overheat. Always use the brake pedal or parking brake.

When engaging a low gear, slow down the vehicle slightly. Otherwise downshift may not turn on.

For economical consumption fuel and smooth driving, turn on the “Overdrive” mode ( overdrive). If engine braking occurs in the "D" range or during a gentle climb, repeated shifting from 3rd to 4th gear is required
cottage and back, it is recommended to disable the "Overdrive" mode. In all other cases, the "Overdrive" mode must be enabled.

OVERDRIVE SWITCH

When the "Overdrive" mode (upshift) is engaged, the gearbox automatically upshifts to second, third and fourth (overdrive) gears. If the overdrive switch is off, the transmission will not upshift to fourth (overdrive). Under normal driving conditions, the selector should be in the "D" position and the "Overdrive" mode switch is on.

If you need to quickly pick up speed, fully depress the gas pedal. The box will automatically downshift, depending on the speed and load of the engine.

ANTI-LOCK BRAKES

The Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) prevents the wheels from locking up during heavy braking or when driving on uneven roads. Electronic control unit anti-lock braking system brakes (ABS) monitors the speed of the vehicle's wheels and regulates the pressure brake fluid on wheels. Thus, in emergency situations or on slippery roads, this system improves the vehicle's handling during braking.

NOTE:

In time work anti-lock systems brakes (ABS) at braking on pedals tormobehind Maybe be felt weak ripple. Also in time movements awcar You you can hear the noise V motor department. These phenomena are normal and indicate on That, What anti-lock system brakes (ABS) works Right.

WARNING:

anti-lock brake system (ABS) Not will be able beforeturn road- traffic accidents (accidents) due to wrong or dangerous maneuvering.

IN listed below cases of brake path cars with anti-lock brake system ABS Maybe be longer, how at cars without her:

■ Movement on gravel roadsAnd roads, covered snow.

Movement With established chains anti-skid.

■ Movement on roads, on overnews which There is bumps, pits And T. P., on bumpy roads orother roads With bad coated.

ENGINE START FROM EXTERNAL SOURCE

1 — Empty Battery

2 - Battery used as an additional source

If electrolyte accidentally comes into contact with hands or eyes, immediately remove contaminated clothing and flush the affected area with clean water for at least 15 minutes. Thereafter contact immediately medical care. During transport to the doctor, continue to wash the affected skin area with water using a sponge or cloth.

The gas given off by the battery during engine start is highly explosive. To prevent an explosion, keep sparks, open flames, and smoking away from the battery.

The battery used as an additional source must have a nominal voltage of 12 V. If you are not sure about this, you should not use such battery to start the engine.

To start a vehicle with a dead battery external source follow these instructions exactly:

1. If the battery used as an auxiliary source is installed in another car, make sure that the cars do not touch each other.

2. Turn off all unnecessary lighting and accessories on both vehicles.

3. Connect the connecting cables to the battery terminals in the order shown in the figure.

First, connect the end of one of the jumper wires to the positive (+) terminal of the discharged battery. Then connect the other end of this wire to the positive (+) terminal of the battery on the other vehicle (used as an auxiliary source). Then, using the other jumper wire, connect one end of it to the negative (-) terminal of the other vehicle's battery (used as an auxiliary source). Then connect the other end of this wire to the engine block of the vehicle with the dead battery, in a location that is as far away from the battery as possible. Do not connect the connecting cable to moving parts of the engine.

4. Start the car engine with the battery being used as an auxiliary source and let the engine run for Idling within minutes. This will ensure that the battery is fully charged. While starting the engine, keep the engine speed of the vehicle whose battery is being used as an auxiliary power source at 2000 rpm.

5. Start your vehicle using the steps to start the engine normally. After the engine starts, do not remove the connecting wires and let the engine idle or at 2000 rpm for several minutes.

6. Carefully remove the connecting wires in the reverse order of their installation. Remove the connecting cable from the negative terminals first and then from the positive terminals.

If you do not know the reason for the low battery (lights left on, etc.), contact your official dealer Hyundai.

EMERGENCY TOWING

1 - Towing hook

In case of emergency towing, when it is not possible to use the services of a tow truck, attach tow rope or a chain to one of the towing hooks at the lower front of the vehicle. Do not attempt to tow your vehicle in this manner on unpaved roads. This can cause serious damage to your Hyundai Getz. Also, towing in this way should not be used in case of damage to the wheels, chassis, axles, steering parts or brake system.

1. Open the tow hook cover by pressing it with your finger.

2. To install the tow hook, rotate it clockwise.

ATTENTION:

The towing hook should be tightly tightened until the gap in the hole in the towing hook disappears. The towing hook is located in the jack on the spare wheel.

3. Attach a tow rope, chain or strap to one of the tow hooks on the lower front of the Hyundai Getz.

ATTENTION:

If the vehicle is towed with all wheels on the road, it must be towed at the front. When doing this, make sure that the gearbox is on neutral gear. Do not exceed the speed of 50 km/h and do not tow the vehicle for more than 25 km. Before towing, make sure that the steering wheel is unlocked (the ignition key is in the “ACC” (“Optional Equipment”) position. When towing, the driver must be in the car to control it.

05.08.2016

If you are looking for a compact and inexpensive city car, look to the Getz, as many owners this car leave about him only positive reviews and recommend to buy. But how good is the Hyundai Getz with mileage, and what are its weaknesses you will learn in this article.

Advantages and disadvantages of Hyundai Getz with mileage.

Despite the fact that the car has no big sizes, on the Euro NCAP crash test in 2004 Hyundai Getz scored four stars out of five. During operation, no special problems with corrosion resistance, rotten cars on the secondary are found, but quite rarely. Most often, corrosion affects the bottom of the doors, the trunk lid and the rear wiper axle. It is not recommended to buy a car that has had more than two owners, since basically the car was bought by people with no experience, who do not know how to properly operate and care for the car.

Hyundai Getz engines.

On Hyundai Getz installed only gasoline engines, most widespread received a 1.4-liter engine, cars with a 1.3 and 1.6-liter engine are a little less common, a 1.1-liter engine is practically not found on our market. During the operation of serious and characteristic sores V Goetz engines not found. The most significant claim on the part of the owners to the power units due to the rather high fuel consumption, on average, 1.3 and 1.4 engines consume 10 liters of gasoline per hundred in the urban cycle. Feature of all power units, this is a rather noisy hydraulic lifter robot, especially on a cold engine. On all timing engines, the timing is driven by a belt, which must be changed every 60 thousand kilometers, at the same time the belt is changed attachments. Fuel filter changes every 40,000 kilometers, it is worth noting that its replacement is a rather laborious process, since it is necessary to dismantle the rear seats to replace it.

Transmission Hyundai Getz.

For the Hyundai Getz, a five-speed manual and four step automatic. As experience has shown, with manual transmission troubles happen extremely rarely, but the automatic transmission turned out to be quite problematic. So on cars of the first years of production, the input and output speed sensor often fails, for this reason the box goes into emergency mode and only works in 3rd gear. Most often, problems arise during improper operation, the torque converter pump bushings turn, this breakdown occurs if the owner actively drives in poorly warmed box oil during the cold season.

Suspension Hyundai Getz.

The running gear of the Hyundai Getz is quite simple, a MacPherson strut is installed in front, and a torsion beam is installed in the back. As operating experience has shown, in principle, the suspension on our roads serves for a long time. Most often, you will have to change the bushings and stabilizer struts, the bushings - 40 thousand km, the struts - 50 thousand km, the rest of the front suspension consumables I take care of more than 100,000 kilometers. Rear suspension considered eternal, it is repaired only after an accident.

The car is equipped with power steering, hydraulic booster on cars of the first years of production, and electric booster on later versions. As operating experience has shown, there are comments only to the electric power steering, so over time, when driving on an uneven road, a knock appears caused by wear of the rail bushings. At the same time, steering consumables serve for a long time, tie rod ends - up to 100,000 km, traction 150 - 200 thousand km.

Salon.

Since the car is positioned as a budget car, the quality of finishing materials is not high. The plastic of the Hyundai Getz is quite hard, but at the same time, the owners claim that crickets do not appear on it even after many years of operation, and the owners are also not happy. Despite compact dimensions the car turned out to be quite spacious, but it will be a bit cramped for three adult passengers on the back sofa.

The trunk has a volume of 255 liters, and with the seat folded back row 975 liters is not the largest in this class. If you fold the rear sofa, you get a flat cargo area on which you can transport fairly large loads.

Outcome.

In general, the Hyundai Getz will not bad option, if you are considering it as a first car or for getting around the city. Before buying, be sure to look at the TCP so that there are no more than a couple of owners before you.

Advantages:

• The appearance of the car despite its age, it looks quite modern.
• Salon moderately roomy, quite comfortable and practical.
• Its main advantage in comparison with competitors is its reliability, ease of maintenance and affordability.

Flaws:

• Thin metal body.
• Weak paint finish.
• Automatic transmission

If you are or have been the owner of this brand of car, please share your experience, indicating the strengths and weak sides auto. Perhaps your review will help others choose .

We list the weaknesses of the once very popular in Russia small hatchback Hyundai, as well as advice on how to choose such a used car and not regret it.

Little Korean Hyundai hatchback Getz, which appeared on the world market at the beginning of the 2000s, conquered Europe and Russia, breaking into the shortlists of bestsellers in the B-class segment. He was willingly bought both as the first car and as a second car in the family. In the three years since its inception, Getz has sold more than half a million units around the world.

In our country, 50,000 such hatchbacks were sold in the first five years. On this occasion Russian club The owners of the model even organized a 9-kilometer run with a column of 137 Goetz.

Popular budget model pressed the more fashionable, stylish and modern Hyundai i20. And soon after his exit, both cars gave way to Russian market now living in the second generation of Solaris. However, on sale you can still find a fairly large number of three-door and five-door Hyundai Getz. Demand for them secondary market due to the amazing survivability of the car and even more attractive prices than before, comparable in cost to a used first-generation Kalina. At the same time, the “Korean”, even in age, surpasses it in quality and reliability.

Prototype 2001 Hyundai TB concept.

"Euro-Korean"

Getz was one of the first Hyundai models developed in Europe and for Europe. The compact hatch was created by engineers and designers at the company's European headquarters in Frankfurt. The prototype of the model under the name TB Concept was first shown at the Tokyo motor show in 2001, and the Koreans showed the serial 3- and 5-door hatches to the world a year later in Geneva. In the same year, the production of the model started on Hyundai factory in Ulsan in South Korea, from where the cars were delivered, including to Russia.

Initially, Getz was offered with us only with two atmospheric gasoline “fours” 1.3 and 1.6 with a choice of mechanics or automatic. However, after the hatches were updated in 2005, the model received a junior 1.1 engine that was previously inaccessible to Russians. And the former unit 1.3 was replaced by a more powerful 1.4. Most capable engine"Goetz" became one horsepower more powerful. After restyling, Korean hatches received new bumpers, less angular head optics, revised rear lights, as well as another radiator grille.

The interior has become more colorful. The steering wheel with a slightly modified shape, as well as the upholstery, the Koreans began to partially paint in blue and red for an extra charge. And the instrument cluster has also changed, and a backlight appeared in the glove compartment. In addition, Getz has become safer. The front headrests became active, and the front doors were reinforced inside with beams to better protection from side collisions. In this form, hatchbacks were delivered to us until the end of 2010 and were produced until 2011.

On sale

Hyundai Getz often bought as family car for the city. And in the metropolis, the number of doors and their size for the convenience of opening in the parking lot near work or at the hypermarket has considerable importance. Therefore, it is not surprising that in the secondary market the model is mainly offered with a 5-door body (93%), although 3-doors (7%) are also found. Used cars equipped with a 5-speed manual (64%) are sold twice as often as those with a 4-speed automatic (36%).

More than half of the used Getz are offered with a 1.4 engine (61%), which appeared in the model after restyling. The second most common aggregate in ads is its predecessor 1.3 (20%). Machines in the simplest configuration with low power base engine 1.1, which was available in tandem only with the MCP, is a rarity in the secondary market (11%). However, used hatchbacks with a top-end 1.6 engine are even more difficult to find on sale (8%).

Body

A primer with a zinc content under a layer of paint protects the Getz body metal from corrosion quite well, and cars that are well-groomed and additionally treated with anticorrosive immediately after purchase may not look presentable at all. Nevertheless, Korean hatchbacks have enough weak points that have been affected by the “red plague” over the years. This is the front edge of the hood, and the trunk lid, and thresholds, and wheel arches, and the bottom, as well as the ends of the doors. But there are also purely cosmetic flaws that appear over the years “not affecting the speed”, spoiling the impression of the car. For example, rusting wiper leashes.

And peeling paint on plastic door handles, cloudy worn out block headlights of head optics worth 5900 rubles for each. Plus, on a rather thin, according to the owners, metal, not only chips remain, but also small dents. They should be painted to prevent corrosion. During the inspection, it is necessary to weed out cars that have been in an accident and poorly repaired. In addition to color differences and uneven gaps between the panels, they may have unequal glass markings, factory stickers in the doorways are painted over, and traces of removal and installation are visible on the heads of the fender and hood fasteners.

Engines

In general, all in-line atmospheric "fours" (12-valve 1.1-1.3 and 16-valve 1.4-1.6) under hyundai hood Getz proved to be surprisingly unpretentious and quite reliable. Even despite the rust that appears over time on different elements power unit due to its insufficient protection from dirt and moisture from the road. Timing drive for all motors is belt. It is less noisy than a chain, but it also requires replacing the belt from 750 rubles more often. Instead of the prescribed 60,000 km, it is better to change it after 50,000 km to avoid expensive repairs after the pistons and valves meet. Sometimes the belt breaks prematurely.

When inspecting the machine, make sure that there are no oil leaks on the engine. By the time the timing belt is replaced, crankshaft oil seals from 300 rubles can begin to miss it. The 1.3 engine often sins with oil leakage from under valve cover. The problem is treated by replacing its gasket for 500 rubles. A used Goetz may also need high voltage wires for 1200 rubles. Due to current breakdowns in them, the car may have traction failures during acceleration and jerking at low speeds. Problems with starting the engine and a burning lamp check engine often solved by a simple replacement of candles for 140 rubles. But in vibrations and knocks under the hood on a run of 160,000 km, exhausted power unit supports of 4900 rubles each can be guilty.

checkpoint

Five-speed mechanics are not in vain found on the Goetz more often than automatic transmissions. It is more reliable and unpretentious, although it is also not without weaknesses. Periodic replacement in it may require gearshift cables for 3,000 rubles. They serve about 60,000 km. Approximately for 80,000 - 100,000 km of run, you will most likely have to change the "sweating" drive seals for 600 rubles and intermediate ones, as well as release bearings. But the clutch on the Goetz serves about 120,000 km and costs 5,000 rubles as an assembly. If vibrations are felt during a trip to the manual gearbox, most likely it is time to replace its pillows for 4,000 rubles. And the culprits bad inclusion gears, most often, worn out synchronizers.

With a 4-band automatic, it's more difficult. Due to the lack of a cooling radiator, the gearbox may overheat. Especially if the owner loves quick starts. Shocks when you turn on the "Drive" mode - a common thing and are seen even on the new "Goetz". But when changing steps, the machine should not “kick”. The cause of vibrations, like the MCP, can be “tired” box supports of 7,500 rubles each. If during a trip to the automatic transmission you hear extraneous noise, whistles, hums, start-up delays are noticeable, and the oil smells of burning, say goodbye to the owner of the car and leave. This machine needs repair, and it will not be cheap. Buying a car with automatic transmission makes sense if you know for sure that you drove it calmly and changed the oil on time. Moreover, it is better every 30,000 km, and not after 45,000 km, as prescribed.

Rest

Brake pads on Goetz serve about 40,000 km. The front ones cost 2160 rubles, and the rear ones - from 1750 rubles. Rear shock absorbers for 1900 rubles "walk" for about 60,000 km. Brake discs for 3200 rubles can last up to 100,000 km. The front shock absorbers for 1900 rubles and their thrust bearings for 600 rubles. Might have to change at this run. wheel bearings for 1200 rubles, ball joints front levers for 590 rubles and silent blocks for 350 rubles.

Knock in the steering mechanism when driving through bumps, which appears to 100,000 km, is treated by replacement worn bushings rails from 200 rubles. All sorts of minor breakdowns Getz rarely annoys. And most of them, in general, do not interfere with the car to drive. For example, many owners of this Korean hatchback are aware of the problem of a broken audio antenna on the roof. A new one costs 950 rubles. And sometimes the backlight of the buttons on dashboard, seat heating buttons and heater control dials.

Yes and backlight dashboard also sometimes requires new light bulbs. When inspecting the car, pay attention to whether the wheels are screwed with all the nuts on the car. There should be four of them. The wheel studs are weak and can sometimes break. New ones are inexpensive - 80 rubles each. Also check your work. rear wiper. Due to the gradual appearance of rust on its backstage, a mechanism worth 5,000 rubles starts to work slowly, and then fails.

How much?

Used Hyundai Getz is not an expensive car. Early pre-styling copies with a 1.3 engine and mechanics can be found on sale from 140,000 rubles. Prices for updated hatches in the basic version with a 1.1 engine and a manual gearbox start at 160,000 rubles. Most often these are cars with mileage from 150,000 km to 200,000 km, and sometimes more. Getz with a gun is unlikely to be found cheaper than 200,000 rubles. And for the freshest copies of 2010 and well maintained cars 2008-2009 with a range of up to 50,000 km, their owners ask for about 350,000 - 400,000 rubles.

Our choice

The little "Korean" proved to be worthy, despite the already decent age. Considering its unpretentiousness, reliability, and also low price and relatively inexpensive spare parts, Hyundai Getz is able to serve its owner faithfully for a long time as a compact family car for the city or "workhorse" for every day. We at Am.ru believe that when choosing such a hatchback, it is better to give preference to more recent restyled cars with an optimal and therefore popular 1.4 engine paired with mechanics. It is quite possible to find such hatches with one owner in the TCP and a mileage of up to 100,000 km for 250,000 rubles.

Appearance little Hyundai Getz does not make the heart beat faster, and many, passing by, do not even notice this car. However, this has its advantages for those who are not used to standing out.

Model history.

The first serial Hyundai Getz was released in 2002. Apart from South Korea the car was assembled in India, Malaysia and even Venezuela. The subcompact was offered in many markets and therefore had several names. For example, in Korea and Syria - Click, in India - Getz Prime, and in Japan - TV. In Venezuela, the baby was generally available under a false name - Dodge Brisa II.

Three years after world production models scored full speed, Koreans decided to restyling. The car received more rounded headlights, an updated grille and taillights. From that point on, the Getz model was sold unchanged until 2009, when the Hyundai i20 took its place. However, in many countries, the production of the model was still ongoing, in particular, Getz was supplied to Russia until 2011.

Engines.

Petrol:

R4 1.1 (63-66 HP)

R4 1.3 (82-85 HP)

R4 1.4 (97 HP)

R4 1.6 (105-106 HP)

Diesel:

R3 1.5 CRDi (82 hp)

R4 1.5 CRDi (88-101 hp)

1.1 liter 12 valve petrol engine.

In a vehicle of this segment, the choice right engine determined primarily by economics. For this reason, the basic gasoline engine. It only seems that a small unit will save on fuel. In order to accelerate the car at least a little, you will have to “turn” the engine strongly, and this will inevitably lead to an increase in fuel consumption. And although the appetite will not be too big, it will be commensurate with the level of consumption of engines with a capacity of 1.3 and 1.4 liters.

The base 1.1-liter unit has mechanical valve clearance compensation, which requires periodic monitoring (once every 30,000 km) and complex adjustment. The 1.3-liter engine is similar in design to the base unit, but is equipped with hydraulic compensators valve clearance. Unfortunately, hydraulic lifters wear out quite quickly, which leads to very noisy work engine immediately after starting. The 1.6-liter engine has a variable valve timing system and two camshafts in the block head. All petrol units equipped with a timing belt drive, which must be replaced every 60,000 km.

Is it worth considering the purchase of an "exotic" diesel modification? At today's prices and quality diesel fuel is not the best solution. Diesel units CRDi family, especially when long runs, are prone to malfunctions, expensive to fix. One of the most common failures is the failure of the boost pressure sensor. But there are pluses - diesel engines are more flexible and consume less fuel- 5-7 l / 100 km. It is worth noting that the 3-cylinder unit does not differ in softness of work: it growls and vibrates strongly.

Leaks in many pieces with age engine oil through the oil sump and crankshaft seals. Nevertheless, there is no need to dismantle engines for serious repairs before 200-300 thousand km.

Design features.

Hyundai Getz has two body types: 3-door and 5-door. The most popular, of course, are the 5-door versions. Unfortunately, many cars of the first years of production are very poorly equipped and do not even have air conditioning, ABS and power steering. The last two entered the list of serial equipment after the update in 2005.

In cars of this class, there is almost never a place for suspension. complex scheme or a technologically advanced transmission. The thesis is also true for the Hyundai Getz. The front suspension is a classic MacPherson strut and the rear is a torsion beam. A choice of 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic was offered. According to the results of crash tests EuroNCAP Hyundai Getz earned 4 races.

Typical problems and malfunctions.

Goetz in terms of reliability is perhaps one of best cars in brand history. But he is far from the notorious Japanese impeccability. What can fail? First of all, the suspension, which is on Russian roads- The usual thing. In front, the stabilizer struts and bushings, as well as silent blocks of levers, are knocked out quite quickly. Behind - shock absorbers wear out prematurely, and anthers sometimes begin to knock. Due to the separate arrangement of springs and shock absorbers, replacing the latter is cheaper and easier. With age, drum brakes can also rattle.

Getz owners complain about unsatisfactory quality paintwork, which is vulnerable to the slightest scratches, and sometimes even flakes off. However, thanks to the 90% galvanization of the body, there is no outbreak of an epidemic of corrosion. The situation is different with the subframe and exhaust system which often rust. In older cars, traces of corrosion can be found in engine compartment, on the bottom, elements of the running gear and the brake system.

Sometimes there are problems with the controller power plant or fail high-voltage wires. The rest of the shortcomings are usually minor. Problems with central lock, tailgate lock, ABS sensors(oxidation of contacts) and flimsy door seals - another typical sores this model.

The market is quite well stocked with spare parts: they are available and very cheap. Therefore, Goetz can be recommended to novice drivers. Troubleshooting and Consequences possible accidents will be fast and easy.

Conclusion.

It is quite possible to find a still young and already inexpensive Hyundai Getz on the market. Apart from excellent ratio cost-for-age, the Getz provides a decent level of comfort and a fair amount of space for its class. But, unfortunately, the car also has disadvantages, including rather poor equipment and finishing materials not of the best quality. best quality. However, the compact in terms of reliability surpasses much more reputable rivals. Thus, it is an excellent choice for people with a rational approach who need a reliable, inexpensive and practical car.

Typical faults:

1. uneven work engine is usually caused by faulty high voltage wires.

2. Loud noise exhaust appears when the flexible connector of the pipes of the exhaust system is worn.

3. Short-lived rear shock absorbers easy to change and have a wide range of inexpensive substitutes.

Specifications.

Version	1.1 12V	1.3 12V	1.4 16V	1.5 CRDi	1.5 CRDI 16V
Engine	Petrol	Petrol	Petrol	Turbodis.	Turbodis.
Working volume	1086 cm3	1341 cm3	1399 cm3	1493 cm3	1493 cm3
Cylinders / valves	R4/12	R4/12	R4/16	R4/8	R4/16
Max power	63 HP	82 HP	97 HP	82 HP	88 HP
Max Torque	94 Nm	117 Nm	125 Nm	191 Nm	215 Nm
Dynamics
Max Speed	148 km/h	164 km/h	170 km/h	170 km/h	173 km/h
Acceleration 0-100 km/h	16.1 s	11.5 s	11.2 s	13.8 s	12.1 s
Average fuel consumption l/100 km

If the engine does not start due to the battery being discharged (the starter does not turn the crankshaft or turns very slowly), you can use the old driver's method - "lighting", i.e. starting the engine from the battery of someone else's car.
If the engine of a car with a discharged battery is in good order, then when it is “lighted up”, it will start immediately.
A kit is required for "lighting" connection cables. The most important parameter cable is the cross section of its conductor. The cross section must be at least 16 sq mm or approximately equal to the cross section of the cable connecting the battery to the starter. At the ends of the cable, clamps must be installed for fastening to the terminals of the batteries. In order not to reverse the polarity, one of the cables or its handles are colored red. This cable is used to connect the positive (+) terminals of the batteries.

When "lighting" should be the following procedure:

1. We turn off the ignition of the donor car, then disconnect the "negative" wire terminal from the discharged battery terminal.
2. We connect the clamp of the "positive" (+) (red) connecting wire to the positive (+) terminal of the discharged battery.
3. We connect the second clamp of the red cable to the positive terminal of the donor battery, and connect the clamp of the “negative” wire to the “negative” terminal of the same battery.
4. We connect the second clamp of the “negative” cable to the “ground” (body or engine) of a car with a discharged battery. It is best to connect the cable clamp to solid metal unpainted and uncontaminated engine parts.
5. We start the engine of the donor car and wait 5-10 minutes for the discharged battery to be recharged from the generator of the donor car.
6. Then we turn off the donor car, after which we start the engine of the car with a dead battery. If the launch is successful, we maintain an increased speed crankshaft car with a dead battery so that when a donor battery is disconnected and a dead battery is connected, the engine will not stall.

It is forbidden to start a car with a discharged battery when the engine of the donor car is running, due to the possible failure of the electronics of the donor car!
It is forbidden to remove the battery without turning off the engine, failure is possible diode bridge generator!

To avoid a sudden voltage surge in onboard network of the donor car, we connect the “negative” wire to the negative terminal of the discharged battery and disconnect the clamp of the “negative” cable from the “mass” of the car with the discharged battery.

A power surge in the car's on-board network can damage the electronic unit management. That is why it is necessary to start the engine with a discharged battery using connecting wires only in the sequence described above.

We disconnect the clamps of the "positive" cable from the "positive" terminal of the discharged battery and the donor battery.