Equal hinge angular velocities(CV joint), which is usually called simply "grenade", performs important function and is the most important node car. The CV joint transfers torque from the gearbox to the drive wheels, while setting the direction of movement. That is, in addition to rotation around the axis, the CV joint must be able to rotate , usually the angle of rotation is limited to 70 degrees.

Based on the purpose of the CV joint, we can conclude that it is used in cars with all-wheel and front-wheel drive (that is, in those with driving wheels setting the direction of movement).

The vast majority of modern cars have a front or four-wheel drive, therefore, understanding the construction of CV joints and their possible malfunctions will be useful to every car owner. Further, in the article we will briefly describe the device of the SHRUS drive, as well as its most frequent malfunctions and their causes.

SHRUS design

Before starting any repair work or trying to diagnose a problem, you need to be clear about what you are dealing with. Therefore, below you will see a photo of the CV joint drive, on which its elements and their names are signed:

For a complete understanding of the structure of the drive elements, below you will see its cross-sectional image:

Possible malfunctions

This unit is very reliable: under normal operating conditions, its service life may exceed the service life of the rest of the vehicle. However, the ingress of a small amount of dust, dirt, or water into the hinge multiplies the friction in the hinge, thereby increasing wear and tear and accelerating failure. Due to their importance for the normal operation of the car, CV joints are well protected by special "protective covers" - anthers. They provide a hinge reliable protection from dust and dirt, as well as complete tightness. Anthers are usually made of dense rubber or plastic and are secured to the drive shaft with clamps. By the way, usually anther clamps have a little unusual appearance... In the photo below you can see the clamps for the anthers, a special device for tightening them and the tightening process itself:

One of the main reasons for CV joints malfunctions is connected precisely with the ingress of dirt or water through damage in the boot. If it happens that your boot is damaged and dirt gets into the hinge, you must immediately inspect it and then clean it (if necessary, repair it). To do this, you need to remove the drive, flush all its elements. Next, make sure that there is no excessive wear in the elements and install them back after filling the CV joint with fresh grease.

Important! Be sure to replace or repair a damaged boot.

Repairing a damaged boot can be done with a regular tire patch and sealant. You can also use the repair method as in the video below:

External CV joint

There are two ways to detect possible malfunctions in the external (external) CV joint:

• visually detect a violation of the integrity and tightness of the boot: cracks, breaks, traces of grease on the outside;
• by characteristic sounds (characteristic crackling, crunching) when turning the steering wheel, entering a turn, etc.

If you disassemble the outer CV joint and find wear and tear on one of its components, then there is an opportunity to significantly extend the life of the joint without replacing it. First of all, if you find wear on the cage at the points of contact with the balls, then there is no point in panicking. The rolling bodies are installed in it with a gap, and a significant one, so that the development at the points of contact is completely harmless. It is another matter if wear appears on the rolling elements themselves or elsewhere in the separator.

If only the rolling elements are worn out, then their repair is not possible. But it will not be difficult to find the same ones at the nearest auto analysis, car market or auto shop. The main thing is to choose the balls of the required diameter.

If the separator is worn out, then there are two main repair methods:

1. replace the entire outer CV joint;
2. replace the separator;
3. change the SHRUS places.

The first method is simpler and more preferable, although it will turn out to be more expensive than the second. A lot of articles have been written about how to properly replace the outer CV joint and many video tutorials have been filmed. There can be many features and subtleties associated with each specific car model.

The second way is to acquire repair kit(which are produced mainly for domestic cars) or find the outer CV joint for your car on the parsing, remove the separator from there and install it in the old CV joint. Naturally, before installing a used separator, you need to make sure that there are no visible signs of wear. Next, immerse it in a rust converter if there is any trace of corrosion on it. It will be useful to clean it with sandpaper after that.

The essence of the third repair method is to rearrange the grenades of the left and right semiaxes in places. This will help, because the direction of rotation of the rolling elements will change (there will be unused portions involved). However, this will result in a crunching sound when driving. reverse.

Another "tricky" method that allows you not to spend money on the purchase of the entire CV joint or its components. However, not every car can be “repaired” in this way. Its essence is to replace the outer cage separator with the inner cage separator. Here, of course, there are two conditions:

• First, the separators must be identical to each other.
• Secondly, the outer wear should not be too strong, and the inner (ideally) should have almost no wear.

Since these two conditions are not met on all car models, therefore, such repairs can not be performed on any car.

Inner CV joint

The inner CV joint, as well as the outer one, is protected by a boot. Accordingly, if its integrity is violated, dirt and water gets into the hinge, which leads to its failure. The methods for repairing internal CV joints in this situation do not differ from repairing external ones: they must be washed, replaced with grease and replaced with a damaged boot.

Another main problem of the internal constant velocity joints is the backlash of the drive shaft from the gearbox side. Visually, the difference between "normal" and backlash can be seen in the video below:

It is necessary to distinguish between two types of backlash of the inner CV joint:

• directly in the inner hinge;
• into the connection between the drive and differential.

Since it is impossible to visually determine the presence of backlashes, and not every car owner will regularly crawl under the car and "wobble" the internal grenade, it is necessary to be able to determine them differently. The most effective way to understand that backlash has appeared in the internal CV joint is to observe the behavior of the car at speed. Accelerate the car to approximately 80-90 km / h and observe if there is steering wheel beating and vibrations along the body at this speed. Pay particular attention to front panel vibrations, particularly around the pedals.

Important! Accelerate to this speed and then continue driving without changing speed.

If you find vibrations, then speed up the car again. Now the speed should be in the region of 100-110 km / h. If vibrations disappear after overclocking, we can conclude that there are backlashes in the internal grenade. It is necessary to remove it as soon as possible and make sure of this. If you have any difficulties in removing the CV joint drive, then use the following video instruction:

The cause of backlash in the grenade is most often the wear of the spline joint of the shaft and tripod. If the wear is small, then there is a simple method for repairing such a malfunction. So, first of all, you need to clean all the elements from dirt and grease. Solutions will help you with this. detergents with water and gasoline or kerosene. After you have cleaned all the elements, look at the spline connection. If you find corrosion on them, treat them with a file.

Do the same with the splines on the shaft. To completely get rid of any traces of corrosion, place the shafts and sprockets in a rust converter. Next, dry the parts and treat them with a degreaser. Then assemble all the elements on the shaft, excluding the sprockets. Before doing this, apply Loctite 648 to the shaft and sprocket. It acts as a kind of "glue" for such connections.

Slip the sprockets onto the shaft, twist them a little so that they fully engage. Now leave the entire structure stationary for 10 minutes. After that, you can finally assemble the drive and install it back on the car. Such a repair will completely eliminate backlash in spline connection.

Another problem that motorists face is damage to the tripoid. In general, there are repair kits for the inner CV joint that will save you a lot of time. True, they will cost a lot. If you do not want to spend money, then you can use the following method of repairing the inner CV joint:

The constant velocity joint (CV joint) is essential element any modern car, although only a small number of motorists and auto mechanics know about its existence and, moreover, repairs.

The hinge has a very important function - it transfers torque from the gearbox to the drive wheels. Thanks to its design features, the CV joint can be rotated up to 70 degrees. That's why the hinges are installed on wheels, which also function as guides.

Summing up, we can conclude that constant velocity joints are present on all front-wheel drive, as well as full drive vehicles... In conditions modern market this is the vast majority of machines.

Since CV joints have become so widespread and such important role in normal operation vehicle, every car owner needs at least minimal set knowledge about the device, the principle of operation and the most common malfunctions of this unit. In this article, we will describe, among other things, repair work that will allow you to return faulty CV joints to normal operation, or at least drive to the nearest car service.

SHRUS device

Before talking about repairs or hypothetical malfunctions in the CV joint drive, you need to imagine exactly what you have to deal with. If you hear the abbreviation "SHRUS" for the first time, we recommend that you read this paragraph especially carefully. The photo below shows an image of the CV joint drive, with the names of its main elements inscribed:

Usually, when the term "CV joint" is mentioned in a conversation, they talk about the entire drive. When it is necessary to indicate one of the two hinges (external or internal), this is specified separately. Outwardly, the drive does not look like a particularly complex unit, but it consists of two very complex joints. To have an idea of ​​what you have to face with a possible repair, look at the photo with a cut of the CV joint drive:

The main drive elements are:

• retaining rings;
• the hinges themselves;
• protective covers - anthers.

The outer CV joint is connected to one of the front wheels of the car, the rear one is attached to the gearbox, and the shaft itself engages with the differential. Based on the location of the hinges, it is obvious that the outer CV joint will be subjected to heavy loads and more likely to interact with the environment. This leads to the fact that it fails more often than the internal one. That is why it is so important to be able to timely identify a malfunction or changes in the operation of the outer hinge in order to prevent serious breakdown.

Determination of malfunction in the outer CV joint

So, before disassembling the outer CV joint and starting the repair, you need to make sure that it is really necessary. The following signs with a probability of almost 100% indicate that something is wrong with the external CV joint:

• Shift the vehicle into forward gear ( automatic transmission gears) or first gear ( mechanical box gear), turn ru left wheel all the way to one side. Next, start abruptly, pushing the gas pedal to the floor. A signal about the occurrence of malfunctions will be crackling and clicks from the front of the car (more precisely, "from the wheels").

Important! Before starting such a maneuver, make sure that you have enough room to complete it.

• Visual way: inspect the front wheel disks... If you find traces of thick grease on them, it means that the outer boot has torn and the CV joint is virtually without lubrication and protection. It is most convenient to use this method on cars on alloy wheels because the stamped ones leave little room for viewing.
• Second option visual inspection: carefully inspect the boot of the outer CV joints. If you find cracks, oil traces or any other signs of boot defects, the outer CV joint must be repaired.

You can see full information on diagnostics of malfunctions of external CV joints in the video below:

Possible malfunctions

Despite the fact that the CV joint is the most reliable and durable unit in the entire car (its resource can significantly exceed the resource of any other car part under normal operating conditions), various problems often arise in it. Usually they are just connected with the violation of the so-called regime normal operation, that is, with the ingress of water, dust or dirt. From exposure environment the hinge is protected by a protective boot - a boot, which is usually made of rubber or plastic.

The anthers are attached to the shaft using special fasteners - clamps. However, the clamps for external CV joints are different from those used for water pipes. They look like this:

Also in the photo you can see a special device for tightening the clamps and how it works.

So, the main malfunctions of the outer SHRUS are associated, as a rule, with a violation of the integrity of the boot and the ingress of dirt and moisture into the SHRUS. This leads to the formation of corrosion and an increase in wear tenfold. If you are faced with such a problem, then the severity of its consequences directly depends on how long you have been using a car with a damaged boot.

To repair the boot, you will need a rubber patch for car tires, sealant, new clamps. The algorithm of actions upon detection of a violation of the integrity of the anther is as follows:

Important! This method suitable for repair only rubber boots, not plastic!

Another method of repairing the boot is rather a temporary measure that will allow you to get to a car service or garage, where you will replace the boot or carry out major repairs (the first method). Its essence lies in the winding of the anther with a large amount of polyethylene and scotch tape.

First of all, jack up the car, remove the wheel and clean the boot. Next, add grease to it with a syringe. Of course, the best option it would be removing the boot, flushing the outer CV joint with kerosene, packing new grease... But since we are considering the budget express method, we will be faithful to it in everything. Now take a plastic bag or film, carefully wrap it around the boot and nearby areas of the shaft. To make sure that the winding does not interfere with the normal operation of the shaft - twist it in the direction of rotation of the wheel... Now all that remains is to rewind everything with scotch tape and hit the road, avoiding pits, puddles or glades with tall grass.

Advice! You can also squeeze out old grease by replacing it with new one. This will greatly increase the likelihood that no major malfunctions will occur inside the hinge.

In more detail, the process of repairing the boot in the second way is discussed in this video:

Disassembly and repair

There are several ways to detect faults in the outer CV joint:

• detect visible destruction protective cover, violation of its tightness: cracked areas, grease on the outer surface, other defects;
• to recognize sounds characteristic of this type of malfunction by ear: clicks, crackling.

If in one of the two ways given above, you have determined that you may have one or both outer CV joints faulty, then you need to disassemble them and make sure of this. I think that many motorists will need instructions on how to disassemble the outer CV joint. It should be understood that different brands cars may have their own design features, so the instructions below will contain the main points common to most cars.

Before you start, find a garage with inspection pit or a lift. If this is not possible for you, a dry room with a flat floor is suitable. Next, rip off the wheel nuts and hub nut. Jack up the car, unscrew the wheel nuts to the end and remove it. Place a wheel or other support under the vehicle for safety.

Now unscrew the hub nut all the way and remove the circlip from the shaft. Next, remove brake pads and the caliper, securing it with some hook to the shock absorber strut, otherwise it will hang on brake hose, which can break off the waters of its weight. Then unscrew the wheel drive bolts with the head.

Then you need to press the ball joint out of the fist. Since we removed the caliper in advance, this will greatly facilitate the task (although you can skip this step if your car has sufficient access to the CV joint and ball drive). Unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint, and then light blows hammer the ball out of the fist. For those who still have questions about how to press in the ball joint, a detailed video instruction:

Now you can remove the hub, which means there is direct access to the outer CV joint. Learn more about how to get to outer CV joint, you can find out in the video:

So, you disassembled the outer CV joint and found signs of wear on its elements. Does this mean that you will have to completely replace outdoor grenade or are there ways to make repairs yourself? Of course the options self repair exist and it all depends on which of the elements of the grenade was damaged.

If only the rolling elements are worn out, then there can be only one repair option - buying new ones. You can easily find balls in any car dealership or at the nearest car market, and at a very low price. The most important thing is to choose balls suitable size.

If the cage is worn out, you can try two ways to repair it (excluding the option with the purchase of a new CV joint):

• direct replacement separator;
• rearrangement of CV joints.

The essence of the first method is to purchase a repair kit for external CV joints or to purchase a used separator for analysis. When purchasing a bush separator, inspect it carefully and make sure that it is much less worn out than yours. Soak it in a rust remover before installing and then sand it with sandpaper. Even if there were no traces of corrosion on it, this procedure will not harm it.

The second method is very simple: you need to rearrange the grenades from the right and left axle shafts to the other side of the car (that is, left - to the right, right - to the left). This can be helpful because the cage usually does not wear evenly and when the direction of rotation changes, the parts that are not worn will be recruited.

Careful disassembly of unfamiliar components and assemblies is the key to a problem-free assembly. In practice, it is not always possible to keep track of all the subtleties and nuances. Fortunately, this cannot be called an overly complicated knot, so after reading our article and watching the accompanying videos, you will know how to assemble an inner CV joint.

Views

V modern cars for internal CV joints, only 2 types of construction are used.

Rceppa

Take as an example inner hinge equal to the angular speeds of the VW Transporter T4. In order to assemble a ball CV joint, you need:

• fix the drive shaft in a vice;
• put a boot with a metal shield on the shaft;
• install the limiting ring;
• casing with separator and inner sleeve can be assembled separately. It is necessary to put the separator on the clip and place it inside the case. Then, turning out the cage and the separator, lay one ball at a time. The video shows the assembly process of the CV joint fixed in the vice. Initially, a cage, a cage and a housing are put on the drive shaft. Then, as in the previous case, balls are inserted into the grooves one by one.

Tripod

It is much easier to assemble a tripod type CV joint. You just need:

• pre-install a boot on the drive shaft;
• put a hinge with rollers on the slots;
• fix the hinge by installing the retaining ring (on drive shaft there is a groove for it);
• liberally lubricate all rubbing vapors;
• install the case;
• fix the anthers;
• manually develop the mechanism by making several turns in different directions.

For a visual representation, we suggest watching a video of the assembly of the outer and inner CV joints.

Important points when replacing

Useful tips that will not only help you assemble the inner CV joint correctly, but also extend the life of the joints and angular velocities in general.

It is most convenient to squeeze and unclench the retaining rings with special pliers. Without them, assembly and disassembly can be more time consuming and hassle-free.

Internal CV joint VAZ 2110 or constant velocity hinge , or in the popular way "pomegranate", is part of transmission of a front wheel drive vehicle.

Its main role is the continuous transmission of rotation from the gearbox to the wheels at different angles. Despite the same principle of operation of all CV joints, different models cars they differ design features... Besides different conditions operation cause differences in the structure of the external and internal SHRUS.

The CV joint performs an important function in the car, it consists of seven parts:

1. Retaining ring.
2. Balloons.
3. Separator.
4. The boot that is in technical guidance listed as pleated pouch.
5. Frame.
6. Drive shaft.
7. Inner clip.

The VAZ 2110 drive unit is responsible for transferring torque to the wheel from the gearbox. CV joint allows the front wheelset to make turns by normalizing the changing angle between the axle shafts. There are two grenades in the machine: the outer one transfers rotation to the hub, and the inner one is needed to transfer rotation from the gearbox to the shaft.

Where is the inner CV joint VAZ 2110

It is easiest to see it from the bottom of the car, by the way, you will have to remove it by crawling under the bottom, although you can do without it (For example, you can put the planks under the front wheels and raise the front part with two jacks, provided that both jacks stand on these planks, thereby in front of will be higher, especially convenient if the car is tall), but still better car drive onto the lift and replace the SHRUS you need with a new one there, but we will immediately explain to you what the outer and inner SHRUS mean, so that you understand this and no longer get confused (It's just that in the article we will often talk about them and so that you will immediately understand what kind of SHRUS we are talking about), and so the outer one is the one that faces the car wheel and is inserted into the hub (Both outer ones are indicated by green arrows), and the inner one is the one that is inserted into the box (They are indicated by yellow arrows) and the entire CV joint in the front there are four driving cars, two of them on the left side are placed and go to the left wheel, and the other two are on the right and go to right wheel, but the drives on which there are only two CV joints, and both of them are indicated in the photo with blue arrows.

The location of the inner and outer CV joints of the VAZ 2110 is indicated by arrows

Diagnostics and troubleshooting of the internal CV joint VAZ 2110

If you pay constant attention and monitor the internal CV joint, then it will calmly serve 150-200 thousand km. Otherwise, malfunctions may appear already in the first hundred thousand km.

The main enemies of any hinge mechanisms are dust and dirt, which play the role of an abrasive and accelerate the wear of the grenade. As soon as the car owner misses the damage to the elastic cover and drives for some time without replacing it, the very dirt gets inside, which sooner or later will do its job, even if you change the boot.

There are other reasons leading to malfunction and replacement of elements:

1. there is not enough lubrication in the mechanism or its quality leaves much to be desired;
2. too aggressive driving on bad roads constantly creating extreme loads on the CV joints;
3. factory defect in the details of the unit.

Conclusion: most of the reasons can be foreseen and prevented with the help of prevention, postponing the replacement of grenades indefinitely.

If during the operation of the VAZ 2110 car the following signs of a malfunction appear, then additional diagnostics must be carried out:

1. while cornering, a characteristic crisp sound is heard from the front of the car, as if steel balls touch the body during operation;
2. the same, only a knock is heard instead of a crunch, it can disappear with a straight motion;
3. a constant crunch that does not disappear when driving in a straight line indicates wear on the inner grenade.

Remember that after the appearance of such noises on one side or on both sides, it is impossible to delay the repair at once. Otherwise faulty CV joint can do a lot of trouble on the go.

To make sure that a grenade is broken, you can check it in 2 ways:

1. Choose a level area with enough room for the Niva to turn. Make several circles behind and counterclockwise along it, turning wheel all the way. Listen carefully to the sounds that arise. If they sound like a crunch, skip to part 2 of the diagnosis.
2. Place the machine above the inspection pit and check for play in all 4 nodes manually by swinging and turning the axle shaft in different directions. A worn hinge will immediately make itself felt.
3. If at the same time it was found that the boot is damaged or water is leaking out of it, then the CV joint in this place has probably become unusable.

Now let's talk in more detail about the backlash in the ball joints. The backlash resulting from the wear of the support will negatively affect the state of the CV joint. And if, when driving at speed, the ball bearing pin pulls out of the mount, the inner CV joint may be broken altogether. By the way, all the main blows of fate are taken on by external grenades. And this is due to the fact that they are connected through the hub to the wheel. It is from the wheel that the constant velocity joint receives powerful shocks and concussions. And water with mud under the wheels gets faster and more on the outer CV joints. Therefore, in order to damage the CV JOINT that connects to the box, you need to try. An exception is the situation when the ball joint pin is pulled out.

Internal CV joint VAZ 2110 - do-it-yourself step-by-step replacement instructions

Before starting work on self-replacement internal CV joint VAZ 2110 you need to prepare everything.

To do this, you need to fix the car, turn on the 4th speed, tighten the handbrake. Fix rear wheels recoil wedges. If they are not there, use bars of a similar shape. Remove the protective cap, unscrew the hub nut with a "shoulder" (extension) - a pipe or a pry bar. After it is withdrawn hub nut, unscrew the wheel bolts.

Let's move on to the step-by-step instructions:

1. Hang out the wheel on which the CV joint is supposed to be replaced with a jack.
2. Unscrew the bolts to remove the hub nut thrust washer.
   
3. Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the bottom ball joint steering knuckle.
4. If the CV joint is replaced on the right, turn the steering wheel to the left as far as possible, and if on the left, then to the right.
   
5. Pull back rounded fist and a rack. Remove the spline end of the outer CV joint from the hub.
   Use a pry bar to remove the inner joint from the gearbox.
6. Fix the drive shaft in a vise, remove the clamps from the outer and inner CV joints. Turn anthers inside out. If they are ripped or cut somewhere, you can simply cut them off with a knife.
   
7. Dismantle the SHRUS VAZ 2110 from the shaft. You can use a hammer and a wooden or bronze adapter.
8. Assembly is carried out upside-down. In doing so, install a new hub nut. At the end of the tightening, you need to lock its edge to avoid unwinding.
   
9. When installing the inner CV joint, a plastic plug is placed on the end of the shaft.
   
10. Before you put the CV JOINT VAZ 2110, you need to make sure that the enough lubricants. Put a retaining ring on the inner CV joint.
    

1. Once the drive is in the box, place it in the half-axle gear so that it locks in completely. This can be done by lightly tapping with a hammer on the surface of the wooden guide along the entire perimeter of the shaft axis.

For execution renovation works to disassemble the CV joint, you will need a container into which you can fold the balls of the hinges in the order of their extraction (for example, make a groove from a corner).

Dismantling the CV joint

1. Remove the inner hinge (see p. 1-5 "").

2. Installing soft pads on the jaws of the vise, fix the hinge in the vise. With a permanent marker, we put marks on the end surfaces of the hinge parts, which determine their relative position.

Helpful advice. If no such “indelible” marker is available, the marks can be applied with a diamond file.

A warning. When securing the CV joint (inner joint) in a vise, be especially careful with the surface in contact with the working edge of the gearbox oil seal. Even minor scratches on this surface will damage the oil seal.

3. Using a thin slotted screwdriver, remove the retainer from the hinge housing.

4. Remove the inner cage with balls and a separator from the hinge body.

5. Putting the cage on a clean surface, slightly move the inner race downward and remove the balls from the cage. We put the balls in the prepared groove, starting from the first ball, located opposite the mark, and then clockwise. When assembling, each ball must be installed in the place from which it was removed.

6. Turning the inner cage inside the separator so that its pins are located opposite the windows of the separator, remove the cage from the separator.

7. Thoroughly rinse all parts of the CV joint in kerosene. We check all parts for any damage. If traces of corrosion or wear are found on any of the parts, replace the CV joint assembly. The use of balls from another CV joint is not allowed.

Assembly of the CV joint

1. Align the marks on the inner cage and separator. We insert balls into the separator, each in the place from which it was removed during disassembly

2. We put in the hinge housing the third part of the grease for the CV joints (80 cm cube for the entire hinge).

3. Aligning the marks applied during disassembly of the hinge on the separator and the hinge housing, insert the separator assembly with the inner cage and balls into the outer hinge housing (the annular groove on the cage must be on the outer side of the hinge).

4. We fill the available cavities of the separator with grease for CV joints and sink the separator with a cage into the hinge housing. We put the rest of the grease in the hinge, and also grease it inner surface anther.

5. Using a slotted screwdriver, insert the retainer into the groove of the hinge housing.